> Don't know that it's "best", but I've always done it by removing the
mixture
> nut and pushing the jet up until it almost touches the piston, then
checking
> for free piston movement as I tighten down the jet nut. Since the needle
is
> tapered, I believe that ensures it cannot touch the jet when the jet is
> lowered to it's normal position.
This is essentially what I did. I get free movement with the jet assembly
completely tightened and the jet pushed all the way up.
> My concern is that, with the jet in it's normal position, you may not be
> able to detect a slight contact between the needle and jet, but it might
be
> enough to wear them both over time. That would eventually distort the
> mixture profile.
This is my concern as well. This is the first time I've ever had the
carburetor completely apart. I'm recently swapped out my old carb body with
the one Fred Thomas was kind enough to send me (thanks again Fred!), and I'm
replacing all the gaskets/seals while I have everything apart (on both
carbs).
> I've never tried it, but I suspect the best "special tool" would be a
steel
> rod that would fit into the needle hole in the piston, and also just clear
> the inside of the jet. The tool packaged in the "SU Tool Kit" only
engages
> the body of the carb, not the piston.
Moss shows a jet centering tool in their catalog. From the picture (in
the catalog), it doesn't look like it actually attaches to the piston. It
looks like it has a textured grip on one end (?).
Anyway... thanks Randall. Per you method, I seem to have it well centered.
Kurtis J.
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4
CT19389L
www.geocities.com/tr4_1963
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