The large brown wire goes to B+. I would urge you to add a second large
wire from the second (middle) B+ terminal to the terminal in the battery
lead (or the starter solenoid if that's easier), since a single connector is
not big enough to handle the output of the Bosch alternator. IMO it was
marginal even for the smaller Lucas alternator, I've seen a fair number of
them fail.
The brown/yellow goes to the D+ terminal. Note that it's important that the
dash 'ignition' lamp work, as this is where the alternator gets it's
bootstrap current from. IMO it's a good idea to add a resistor in parallel
with the dash lamp, something like 10 ohms, 5 watts. This will help the
alternator get started faster when you start the engine, and keep it working
even if the dash lamp burns out.
The small brown wire may either be connected to the "+" terminal (which at
least on my copy of the Bosch still sticks out), or tied off securely and
taped. It's a direct connection to the battery, so be sure it can't get
loose or rub against anything.
My Bosch also has a threaded "W" post sticking out, that looks a bit like a
ground terminal. It also must not be allowed to short to anything (or
connected to ground). In the photo on the MG page, it's the one to the
right and below the regulator, with a black cap on it.
Randall
>
> Sadness, my Haynes manual details Engine Reassembly on
> p.36 (Chap 1 devoted to engine), no mention of the
> three orphaned wires going to an alternator.
>
> So, once more if someone has a '75 TR6 and knows the
> connectors schme for:
>
> Wires:
> 10g brown
> small bown+yellow
> small brown
>
> Alt Connections:
> B+, B+, D+ (+ already taken by onboard regulator)
>
> See the MG guys page if interested:
> http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/idbritcars/boschAlt.html
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