Hi Tom,
Chiming in a little late on this thread....
I have not worked on a TR3, but this sounds like the lever shock links or
the steering links on a TR6 - taper joints.
You've probably got these shocks off by now, but let me add that WD-40 is
not the best penetrant. I like Kroil, and I hear that PB Blaster is good.
A carefully applied propane torch may break the rust bond, too.
Upon reassembly, use Never-Seize compound on the taper joint. You will
be happy next time you disassemble them!
Regards,
Rick 1973 TR6 CF2570U
Re:
>Hi Tom,
Randall has mentioned the two hammer approach i.e. one either side of the
eye. (The eye is temporarily slightly deformed and the taper pops out.) In
the last year or so I might have undone 15-20 tie rod or drag link ends
this way and while sometimes it takes several whacks, it has always worked.
You do get better with practice.
The trick is to use two heavy hammers i.e. hand sledges. You don't have to
hit the target fast, and a couple of good thunks is usually enough. If the
taper happens to be facing down into the eye (not in your situation right
now), it helps if your pickle fork is wedged in place already.
Due to space limitations there are occasions where you have to resort to
hitting the end of the threaded part; I find this approach requires great
caution.
Best regards,
Jim Wallace
================================
.....I am trying to disconect the links from the lever are of the rear
shocks
on my TR3. Almost needless to say is that these have never been
disconected in the life of the car. Thus far I have the nuts off top
and bottom, sprayed with, WD40, and wedged a pickle fork into the joint
ithe my hammer. The only thing that happens is the rubber inside the
link distorts.
Any suggestions of favored approaches to this....
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