Yesterday I removed the silent block bushings, and they were in surprisingly
good shape considering their 44 year age. Just the ends exposed to the
elements were oxidized and slightly cracked, the insides were flexible and firm
with
no indication of cracking. I almost put them back in, instead of replacing
them. I only pushed out the threaded pin and the rubber bush, I left the steel
tube insert in the steering forging.
I machined replacement bushings from solid nylon (density unknown but not
rock hard, with some give, used a 8 tooth hand saw to cut it quite easily),
pressed them into place and reamed the ID to fit the threaded pins.
I was chomping at the bit to go for a test ride yesterday but the weather
didn't cooperate. Today there was a little break in the weather. I just got
back from a shakedown cruise and the difference in steering response and
reduction of wheel flutter over bumps is quite noticeable. I had a high speed
shimmy
that has also disappeared. No significant increase in steering effort, which
will probably get even easier as the bush wears in. The only question that
remains is how durable the nylon will be over time.
Altogether I am extemely pleased with the results. Total time to disassemble
the steering, remove the bushing, machine the nylon bushings and re-install
was only
4.5 hours.
The bushing size for anyone that is interested is .75" OD, .5" ID and 1.2"
long. Ream after pressing in the bush with a .5003 reamer. I let the ends of
the bush extend out each end about .100" so that they would be slightly
compressed when fully installed in order to seal out the elements. Used "never
sieze"
on the ID of the bush for lube.. The thickness of the steering assembly
forging may vary, so you may have to adjust the overall length of the bush to
accomodate any variation in thickness.
Normal disclaimers apply. This is only what I tried, no recomendation or
guarantees of safety apply.
I hope to see some of you listers at the "Brits by the Sea" in Waterford, CT,
next Sunday.
Gary Bouffard
59 TR3A
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