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RE: Help! End of my line re starting TR3 on frame

To: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Help! End of my line re starting TR3 on frame
From: "Jack W. Drews" <vinttr4@geneseo.net>
Date: Sat, 10 May 2003 08:15:59 -0500
References: <20030510031207.63914.qmail@web21407.mail.yahoo.com>
I had exactly this problem a couple of years ago, caused by the starter 
rebuild shop who put the wrong drive gear on the starter when it was 
rebuilt. If you have a diaphragm clutch, the sheet metal cover of the 
clutch protrudes just a little bit from the edge of the flywheel. That is 
why there is  short cut-away section of the bendix gear on the starter. If 
you have a diaphragm (TR4A) style clutch, and the wrong drive gear on the 
starter, you will have this problem. Or, maybe, of course, it is something 
entirely different.

At 10:03 PM 5/9/03 -0700, Randall Young wrote:
> > I can sit behind the engine and turn the flywheel by
> > hand. With spark plugs in, it's pretty difficult, but
> > possible. With plugs out, I can spin the flywheel
> > somewhat easily. I can manually pull out pinion of
> > mounted starter and fit it into flywheel, but (as I
> > said) it's TIGHT. Very little room to spare and it
> > binds enough to sick. The engine had a standard
> > rebuild, with one difference: It has the rear seal
> > conversion kit. This produces at least a different
> > appearence where the flywheel bolts, but perhaps it is
> > causing the flywheel to protrude out beyond factory
> > specs? This is my only guess.
>
>The flywheel must not touch anything in this area, except the end of the
>crankshaft.  Therefore, it is located only by the crankshaft, which in turn
>is located by the thrust washers inside the engine.  So, it all has to be in
>the right spot.
>
>However, it's worth double-checking that there is no interference anywhere,
>and that the bolts for the clutch cover don't protrude through the flywheel.
>
> > If you have had this
> > conversion done, please chime in and let me know if it
> > required any modification to flywheel. Other than
> > that, it's stock. I just have engine on frame. No
> > gearbox. Therefore the starter is bolted just to
> > engine, in the wide open and for easy viewing. All
> > starters appear to be mounting nice and flat and
> > level. Hard to tell though.
> >
> > ANY more diagnostics I can offer (I can take any
> > pics/video clips needed) PLEASE let me know! I'm
> > really frustrated right now. I'm sure I'll feel better
> > in the morning. Please offer your insight even far
> > fetched ideas. :)
>
>Several things to look at :
>
>1) Does the starter spin the engine smoothly with the plugs out ?  With the
>ignition disconnected ?
>2) Does the clearance between the pinion and ring gear change as the
>crankshaft turns ?
>3) Does the surface of the flywheel move in and out relative to the block,
>as it turns ?
>
>Ok, this is a definite bodge ... but try using one undersized bolt in the
>starter so you can move it out a bit, and get enough clearance for the
>pinion to keep it from binding.  Of course the bolt must be tight when you
>try to crank the engine, but maybe with a little extra clearance in there
>you can get it to turn and see what the problem is.  You've got me wondering
>if your block was mis-machined at the factory, or possibly has warped in the
>starter mounting area.  Stranger things have happened.
>
>Randall

uncle jack

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