>Date: Wed, 07 May 2003 17:48:27 -0400
>From: Hugh Fader <hfader@usa.net>
>Subject: Fuel Pump Rebuild
>
>I just received a rebuild kit for my TR6 fuel pump. I plan to rebuild one
>that I have in my junk box. The one on the car seems to be seeping a little
>bit of fuel. It looks like it's pretty straightforward. But... does anybody
>have tips or tricks for this?
>
>Thanks,
>Hugh Fader
>72 TR6
-----------------------------------------
I am going through this with my GT6, which uses the same fuel pump.
The 3 major parts with the rebuild kit are the diaphragm & 2 valves.
First, replace the diaphragm alone & see if it is sufficient to return
function to the fuel pump.
Suck on the inlet pipe & make sure you can't get any air through.
Block the inlet & make sure no air comes *in* through the outlet.
If that's OK, you're home free.
A tip for protecting the holes in the diaphrahm iis to hold
the pump with its spring on the compressed stroke when tightening the
screws around the side.
If the valves are bad, it is more complicated.
The valves are staked into the aluminum pump casting. The staking is
pushing a small bit of the adjoining aluminum casting over the valve edge to
hold the valve in place. The original stakes will need to be ground
slightly to withdraw the old valves. Then the new valves are
put in place, seating *perfectly* so there will be no flow around them, and
with a square punch, are staked in place. The alumin castings are getting
old & brittle, so success is a little more dependent on skill.
I turned mine over to a machine shop to stake the valves;
unfortunately the valves weren't seated & there's now not enough material to
grind the new stakes away, re-seat, & stake again. I wonder if White Post
or some other restoration shop would be able to sleeve the pump body valve
area & install the valves.
Meantime, it's a repro pump, & I hate it. Those primer levers on the
originals are so cool.
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