Hi Paul,
I also played the gasket game two times :-p
Then I had my head examined <g> for flatness (it was OK)
And I was told to replace the old studs and nuts. If the threads
are worn, a lot of the torque goes into friction and/or the
threads yield leaving insufficient force pulling the head down.
That along with several hot retorques worked for me (I don't
think I got much after the first couple, but I was paranoid about
having it leak again!). If you're heads not better, try that.
Jeff
> Anyone ever heard of the newer Payen style gaskets
> that are some type of composite? The old Payen
> gaskets were a metalized material on both sides
> but the newer ones are supposedly some type of
> composite material that will almost 'melt' to seal correctly.
> Anyone ever heard that one? I was also told, DO NOT
> apply any type of sealant (copper spray, silver paint etc)
>
> Oh..yes... I was an idiot! No... I had not re-torqued the head
> after initial warm-up before the test run and major leak.
>
> I went ahead and re-torqued it, cold, after the last email
> conversation. Even cold I was about 10-12 lbs low on all bolts.
> I then went out for a run to warm it up again.
> Brought it back into the garage, pulled the cover and
> rockers and re-torqued the head. Hot, I was able to tighten it
> up about 8-10 more lbs. Even the cold re-torque seems to
> have resolved the leak/squirt problem. I probably have about
> 1-1.5oz. of water max. in the oil, so I have to flush and drain it now.
> Once it cools down I'll put the rockers back on, and seal it all
> up.
>
> ...we'll see what happens.
>
> Thanks everyone for your patience, and input. (and limited
> wize-cracks) :^)
>
> Paul Tegler
> ptegler@cablespeed.com
> www.teglerizer.com
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