Hi Bill,
and welcome to the list! Misery loves company ...
> I have just
> purchased a 72 TR-6. It is a one owner, 38k, garage kept car. I could not
> find any rust or major repairs done on this car. It runs,
> although it hasn't
> been started in a couple of months. It does need carpets and new
> dash pads.
> The rest of the interior is in good shape. The top has a couple
> of seams that
> are coming apart, like it hasn't been up in a long time. The only
> thing that
> I know it needs is weather-stripping. I figure $1800 was a fair price.
Sounds like a steal to me, depending of course on what you don't know yet.
> Are there any surprises I should be looking for? Any particular quirks to
> TR6s?
I've never owned a TR6, but from what I've heard and seen of other's cars,
you should plan on dropping the differential and checking it's mounts for
cracks. Also look closely at the lower rear edge of the front fenders for
signs of corrosion and to be sure the body drain is open. They have a
tendency to get blocked, causing the inner fender to rot away.
> Who are the best suppliers for parts?
TRF is my favorite of the "Big 3", mostly because the owner Charles Runyan
is a genuine Triumph enthusiast (and host of this year's VTR annual
convention).
http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/
Check out their "car club", it works out pretty well for a "rolling
restoration" where you can buy at least a few parts every month ...
membership gets you $25 off a $50 order each month. Their web site now
accepts on-line orders, it's reasonably painless and seems to work well for
me. YMMV.
Moss and VB are the other two, I'm sure you're familiar with them.
Lots of good smaller vendors too, including some that discount parts from
Moss. Check out the 'Monster List' at
http://www.team.net/sol/britpart.html
> Some of you may know me from the spitfire list, as the guy that makes hub
> pullers for spitfires at a reasonable price, and I am in the process of
> making one for TR6s. Hopefully I will have the prototype ready
> this week and
> try it on my new find.
How about making it with a little extra clearance between the forcing screw
and axle, so it can also be used on the earlier solid-axle cars
(TR2/3/3A/4/some 4A) ? Everything else is the same, but the solid axle
protrudes roughly 2-3/8" beyond the face of the flange.
Randall
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (currently sidelined for OD transplant)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
71 Stag LE1473L daily driver
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