I would also like to add:
For the plate, I used a short 6" piece of 2X4. I drilled a hole
4"deep through the edge of the wood. (across the grain)
This way the wood fits between the studs for the shocks and won't slide around.
Also, I used special nut that's about an inch long, I think it's
used fot coupling two threaded rods together, but I used it
to get the most thread contact.
Also keep oil on the threads. This is very soft metal for this kind of load.
Also, keep your wits about you! This is VERY DANGEROUS stuff.
Oh, and also, a ratcheting box wrench makes life better.
>Date: Thu, 10 Apr 2003 22:49:55 -0400
>From: Mitchel Seff <ms6453@optonline.net>
>Don ,
>Easy to make. I used 1/2" threaded rod ( you could probably get away
>with 3/8" ) along with large fender washers or a large enough steel
>plate to cover the top & bottom shock mounting holes. You want the rod
>long enough to hold the expanded spring. I use a threaded coupling and
>lock it in place on the top so I can use a ratchet and hold a wrench on
>the bottom nut. Since the front suspension is exposed it's easy to
>imagine and fabricate the tool. You also get a good view of the tool in
>the TRF catalog if I remember correctly.
>
>--
>Mitch Seff
>Oceanside, N.Y.
>75 TR6
>http://www.angelfire.com/ny4/triumph5/
>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Brian Borgstede !
Distance Learning Engineer !
University of Missouri - St. Louis ! '68 Triumph TR-250
Phone: (314)516-6433 ! (or two or more)
Fax: (314)516-6019 !
Email: borgstede@umsl.edu !
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