Cliff,
When I did mine it left them on the car. I put the stud in as far as
they
would go would go. I used nut with an inner diameter larger than the stud as
a spacer, put a lug nut on the stud and started tightening it up. it drew
the stud into the hub. Hope it works for you.
Roger
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Cliff Hansen
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 2:21 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Changing wheel studs - warning: no SUV, Iraq, or gas price
content
I'm changing from short to long wheel studs so I can use either disk or
wire wheels. TRF sells the same part for TR4 - TR6 wheel studs. The studs
on the back are really a pain. They have lengthwise splines that must
press into grooves in the hub. I can get them started but that's it.
I measured a new stud across the widest set of splines and got
0.535". Same measurement on a second stud. I measured an old one that I
had popped out with a large hammer, and got 0.518" I tried to measure the
inside of the hole across an opposite pair of grooves and got 0.510"
No wonder the new studs seem so hard to press in. I've tried heating the
surrounding hub to about 300F and putting the studs in the freezer, but who
am I kidding, it takes a 500F difference to get 0.001 difference in
dimension. I'm thinking that 0.025 is too much metal to try to squeeze
into the clearances.
I do not have the hubs disassembled so its a bit awkward to put the hub and
stud together with a press. I've been using a large vise to try to squeeze
the studs in. I tried an impact wrench, after about 20 min I had gotten
one stud pulled through, I abandoned that approach because I was worried
about scarring up the face of the flange or about pulling the threads off
the stud.
Anyone have a better idea that doesn't involve disassembling the hubs?
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