I'm changing from short to long wheel studs so I can use either disk or
wire wheels. TRF sells the same part for TR4 - TR6 wheel studs. The studs
on the back are really a pain. They have lengthwise splines that must
press into grooves in the hub. I can get them started but that's it.
I measured a new stud across the widest set of splines and got
0.535". Same measurement on a second stud. I measured an old one that I
had popped out with a large hammer, and got 0.518" I tried to measure the
inside of the hole across an opposite pair of grooves and got 0.510"
No wonder the new studs seem so hard to press in. I've tried heating the
surrounding hub to about 300F and putting the studs in the freezer, but who
am I kidding, it takes a 500F difference to get 0.001 difference in
dimension. I'm thinking that 0.025 is too much metal to try to squeeze
into the clearances.
I do not have the hubs disassembled so its a bit awkward to put the hub and
stud together with a press. I've been using a large vise to try to squeeze
the studs in. I tried an impact wrench, after about 20 min I had gotten
one stud pulled through, I abandoned that approach because I was worried
about scarring up the face of the flange or about pulling the threads off
the stud.
Anyone have a better idea that doesn't involve disassembling the hubs?
The front studs were no problem at all, line it up and squeeze it in using
the vise.
Thanks.
Cliff Hansen
hansenc@flash.net
1966 TR-4A CTC 64615L (new sills and floors and finally a repaired rear
valence)
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