I guess I've got a similar problem with my TR2. My previous electrical
problem turned into a need to replace the wiring harness, which turned into
a need to replace the upholstery and seats (which needed to be done anyway),
which turned into a need to paint, which turned into a need to remove the
rear wings (anything sound familiar?). I've been soaking the screws/bolts
on the rear wings with PB Blaster for about 2 weeks, and have made very
little progress. I'm about ready to take a grinder to the heads, but I'm
concerned about gettng the shafts of the screws/bolts out of the nuts. Is
it typical to then grind the bracket which holds the nuts, and start over
with all new nuts and bolts? Is there any easier way? Does one simply
grind off the brackets, and forget about them? Had the same problem with
the seat rails, ground off the heads, released the rails, and am now having
a real problem trying to get the shafts out with a vice grip.
Thanks for your help.
David Gunn
TR2 TS3388L
PS BTW don't recall if I thanked everyone for your responses to my
electrical problem - but - THANKS! The end result was that, after looking
at the wiring at the control box, it had been burned, and was melting the
covering - thus - the need for the harness relacement. DEG
>From: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
>Reply-To: Randall Young <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: RE: What do the professionals do?
>Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2003 08:48:22 -0800
>
> > What would a professional mechanic have done when faced with a similar
> > situation? Would he have gone straight for the angle grinder as soon
> > as he realised the bolt was stuck (knowing that he was likely to cause
> > at least a small amount of damage to the wishbones)?
>
>From what I've seen, most professionals being paid to work on someone
>else's
>car would go straight for the grinder. Might use an air powered die
>grinder
>instead of an angle grinder <g>
>
> > Or are there any
> > tricks of the trade he would have tried first (other than soaking the
> > thing in WD40, which I tried)? I can't believe that any half-way
> > competent mechanic would have made such a big job of this as I did, and
> > I would like to know what to do next time.
>
>IMO, WD40 is a very poor penetrating oil (it's better for other things).
>My
>personal favorite penetrating oil is PB Blaster, with Kroil a close second.
>I've heard that SiliKroil is better yet, but haven't tried it. And, I've
>no
>idea if any of these are available in the UK ...
>http://www.kanolabs.com/
>
>For stubborn cases, PB Blaster may take a long time to work. I've soaked
>stuck fasteners for as much as a month, trying to remove them every few
>days
>(and applying more PB Blaster), to have them finally come loose.
>
>Randall
>
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