Message text written by "Jeffrey J. Barteet"
<snip>Well, if you can find a set of TR HS6s on a 4a manifold with
linkages, I'd
>jump on it with both feet. Me, I went the hard way buying the manifold
>from one guy, the linkage from another, and a pair of HS6s from a Volvo
>B20 from yet another.
>So now I have all the parts, right? Well, not quite.<snip>
Boy, that sounds familiar.
I went with the bowls in the middle but found that the Volvo shaft that
goes between the carbs was just ever so little bit too short. Being the
tinkerer type I set about to make my own linkage. The tie shaft was easy.
The shorter rod from the throttle pedal shaft was easy (1/4 inch steel rod,
run a die and cut 1/4-28 threads) and the bell crank to tie shaft rod was
as well (see above). But I had to fabricate my own bell crank mount which
turned out to be a piece of 1/8 steel with a couple of sharp bends (made
with the help of a torch since I have not brake that will bend something
that thick) and a couple of iterations of triming to get it to fit.
And the choke linkage was equally involved. I initially thought a TR6
choke linkage would work but it was too short. So I made a one to two
adapter (anyone familiar with the Austin Healey choke linkage?) which is a
moving block with three holes and clamp screws - one for the single cable
from the dash and two for the cables (bicycle brake cable) to the carbs.
The cable sheaths are secured by a home-made framework that straddles the
moving piece. And believe it or no but this choke set-up is even more
difficult to operate than the original.
I didn't attempt to adjust the float bowls thinking they were close enough
to level. But I used TR4A needles and jets since the Volvo jets were shot
and the Volvo needles won't work with the TR4A jets.
The results are less than stellar. My long term plans are to rebush the
H6's and restore the car to original.
All in all, it was agood academic exercize. I give myself a C. (OK, C-)
Cheers
Dave
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