Scott, it's definitely not normal. How did you check that the gasket
surface is flat and not bowed ?
Doing anything close to what I would call "really tightening" the nuts will
bend the heck out of the stock steel TR3 cover (and BTW the stock TR6 cover
is also steel). Aluminum covers actually tend to be more rigid, since they
are much thicker.
Justin's gasket is much softer than the cork, so it should be better able to
deal with any distortion in the cover, with a minimum amount of torque. I
don't have the instructions handy, but ISTR Justin recommended an even lower
torque when using his gasket. I know on my car I can barely tell the
difference in torque between what it takes to turn the Nyloc nuts, and
compressing the gasket.
Randall
> Getting closer to starting the engine and can hardly wait. Put
> oil in the engine and went to install Justin Wagner's silicon
> gasket. Did all of the prep as called for by his instructions (my
> wife was not happy since she baked 2 pies after I had cooked the
> gasket, but all thought they came out better than ever this year).
> Anyway, I could not get a good seal on the rear end even though
> the gasket was sitting properly. Took this off and checked to
> make sure the rocker cover was not bent, which it is not. Put on
> the standard cork gasket, which gave a better seal, but still could
> slightly move the gasket on the back end with the cover in place and
> tightened down. To get a good seal that seemed to firmly hold the
> gasket in the back end, I really had to tighten down the lock
> nut, the rear one.
>
> My question is, is this normal or is their something I may be
> overlooking? On my 6, if I over tighten the nut it will
> obviously bend the aluminum cover, but with the steel cover on the
> 3, it can take the amount of torque I needed to get the seal. BTW,
> I had the head checked before I rebuilt it and it was fine.
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