Don't feel alone, you're not the first, or last, that will strip those
threads on the trailing arm. There's a warning in the manual not to
over-tighten. As I recall the torque setting was some ridiculously low
number like 10 Lbs/In.
Using a helicoil is absolutely the best way to go. McMaster Carr sells them
by the piece. Try www.mcmaster.com and use the search "threaded insert" to
find what you need. The self locking ones are best. NAPA also sells these
inserts. You should be able to fix them for a total of $20, including the
insert tool.
A second choice might be to use JB Weld. But, if you've totally stripped
out the threads I advise against it. The reason is that JB Weld, like any
other two piece epoxy, needs to adhere to roughness, but if all the threads
are gone then it won't work.
While you're in there, check the half shaft boots for cracks, lube the
u-joints and finally adjust the rear brakes to specs.
John in San Diego
'67 TR4A IRS
-----Original Message-----
From: M. Secrest [SMTP:vze34wdb@verizon.net]
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2002 1:40 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: TR6: OK, Now I've Done It
Listers:
I can't remember the last time I stripped a bolt or nut, and now I've
stripped two stud holes in quick succession. It happened during the
reassembly of my half-shaft u-j renewal project.
I've stripped out the two of the threaded holes for the studs that hold
the half-shaft/bearing assembly to the housing behind the brake pads.
(There are six studs in total here.) I don't know what to call this part
of the car, but you get the idea.
I suspect this part of the car is aluminum, no?
What now?
--
Martin Secrest
72 TR6
73 GT6
Arlington, VA
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