> So, what's the best way to keep my cool?
>
> Is it Prestone in mega doses? Phosphate or non? 1/2 or more?
Antifreeze/water is actually not as good a coolant as pure water, the main
reason for using antifreeze is because of the corrosion inhibitors in it.
These do wear out over time, so it needs to be changed every 2 years. Since
you live in SD (so don't need freeze protection), don't use more than about
1/3 anti-freeze to 2/3 distilled water. "FT" recommends a product called
No-Rosion that sounds good, but I haven't tried it yet.
http://www.no-rosion.com/
(Note that No-Rosion doesn't provide freeze protection, which isn't a
problem for you and I but some people may need to also use anti-freeze with
it).
As I understand it, the concern over using phosphate additives in
anti-freeze is that when combined with very hard water (as is common in
Europe), the phosphate can form scale. I always use distilled water for the
final fill (available at the local grocery store for about $.80/gallon)
anyway, so I've never tried phosphate-free antifreeze.
> Is Redline's "Wetter" any good?
It does help under some circumstances, but IMO is a band-aid. If everything
else is right, you won't need it.
> Should I look into a new radiator?
On a TR4A you should be able to look into the filler cap and see the end of
the tubes. If you see deposits built up around the ends of the tubes, it
should probably be professionally cleaned ("rodded out"). The local
radiator shop is also the right place to ask if it should be replaced.
Mac's Radiator in Bellflower, CA will inspect it for free ... most likely
your local shop will too.
> How about the yellow eight blade fan? Charles had some on sale
> at Triumphest, is it worth it?
For my money, if you're doing something non-original anyway, an electric fan
is the only way to go. They give the maximum boost to airflow just when you
need it (ie car not moving), and don't suck power (and fuel mileage) when
you don't.
> Is the radiator duct really needed?
The duct definitely helps with cooling at speed. It's less important at
lower speeds.
> Which one is best? (The
> cardboard ones seem to fold at slightest moisture).
Sorry, I can't help here. One of my 'someday' projects is to do a duct for
my TR3A in aluminum.
> Should I install some sort of port to help the "backflush"?
IMO, no. To do a really thorough flush, you need to remove the thermostat
anyway.
> Where? What pressure is needed to backflush?
The engine block seems to be where gunk is most likely to accumulate, so
it's where I concentrate my flushing efforts (when I do flush, which isn't
every 2 years). Remove the thermostat housing (which is the easy way to get
the thermostat out of the way), and the lower radiator hose from the
radiator, open the tap at the rear of the engine block then run water from
the garden hose full force into the lower radiator hose. I don't have a
heater at the moment, but if you do, it's probably best to block it off
while you do the engine. Then flush the heater and the radiator separately.
Be careful when doing the heater, as it will not handle full water mains
pressure (Hint : this is why I don't have a heater at the moment <g>)
Randall
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