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Re: TR3A Geearbox Refit

To: "suhring" <suhring@lancnews.infi.net>, "Triumph Internet Mail List." <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: TR3A Geearbox Refit
From: "Gerald Van Vlack" <jerryvv@alltel.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 14:54:51 -0400
References: <3D73ABEE.6443A61E@lancnews.infi.net>
Scott, The measurement that you are looking for while helpful may not solve
your problem. It sounds like you have a simple case of spline misalignment
not allowing the input shaft to engage with the clutch disc. When you
installed the flywheel and clutch earlier how did you center the clutch
disc? If you have a spare input shaft that works very well, if not a wooden
dowel (broom stick handle) can be fabricated to work. You must get the disc
centered to have a chance at getting them assembled. Check this first and be
absolutely sure it's centered.
As for the measurements try something like this to align the engine and
transmission. Look at the gap between the engine and transmission as you
offer the transmission to the engine. If the gap between them is the same or
very nearly the same all around then you are on the same plane as the
engine. If greater on the top than the bottom then lift the rear of the
trans, greater on the right than the left then move the back of the gearbox
to the right. Always move the back of the gearbox in the direction of the
largest gap. By doing so you'll be in alignment with the engine.
You may need to engage the trans in 4th gear and rotate the driveshaft
flange to engage the splines also.
With the tub off of the car this should be an easy installation as you've
got lots of room with which to maneuver.
Also while the input shaft bearing is quite strong don't allow the weight of
the transmission to hang on the shaft, it is possible to damage the smaller
roller bearings where the input shaft mates with the transmission mainshaft.
The last trick and one that will really help is to make two threaded dowels
from long bolts of the proper thread (cut off the heads) and install them in
two of the upper threaded mounting holes in the engine. Use these to carry
the weight of the transmission as you engage the splines. Doing so will
assure that you have the proper height alignment and allow you to
concentrate on the gaps etc.

Hope this helps you.

Jerry van Vlack
----- Original Message -----
From: "suhring" <suhring@lancnews.infi.net>
To: "Triumph Internet Mail List." <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 2:20 PM
Subject: TR3A Geearbox Refit


> Well, I got the flywheel and clutch installed to the rear end
> of the crank with little problem this morning, but am having
> a hell of a time getting the gearbox refitted.  I think that
> most of the problem is that it is too heavy/awkward for myself
> to do and the wife is of some help, but doesn't have the patience
> for the task.  Two questions for the list:
>
> 1.  Could someone provide me the measurements of the bottom of
> the rear of the oil pan to the floor and the bottom of the
> chassis parallel to the rear of the oil pan to the floor? This
> would give me a reference to if I have the rear of the engine at
> the correct height, supported by the jack and a block of wood.
>
> 2.  Should the rear gearbox mount be attached to the chassis
> before the gearbox is attached to the block or after?  The Haynes
> manual shows the mount being removed before the gearbox is removed
> from the car.
>
> Any other suggestions from those who have done this would be
> appreciated.  BTW, this is with the '59 TR3 and the tub is not
> on the chassis.
>
> TIA
>
> Scott Suhring
> Elizabethtown, PA
> '70 TR6
> '59 TR3

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