Hi Scott
Be very wary with the silicone, one lump of that can screw the engine in
seconds, and silicone unlike most other sealants does not disperse, it stays
in lumps of strings or whatever shape squeezes out. I much prefer Blue
Hylomar for this type of job, less risk IMHO.
Secondly, in my experience it is more likely the front sealing block leaking
than the front plate. Both these leaks will be very close together, and real
detailed analysis is needed to determine one or the other. Have you done a
complete rebuild of the engine, or has it just been idle? If rebuilt, did
you soak the wooden sealing blocks in oil before installing, if not I would
wait a week and see if it seals as the wood swells.
To test the temperature gauge, short the terminal for the sender to the
housing for a few seconds, if the gauge reads full scale deflection, it is
working and likely to be the sender at fault.
The ignition switch does sound faulty, I had one of a similar type (in my
2000) fail a couple of weeks ago, started the car and the starter continued
running until I switched the ignition off, turned the key to the run
position (one click clockwise) and it started, turned the key to the aux
position (one click counter clockwise) and it started. swapped the switch
and all is well!
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott A. Roberts" <herald1200@comcast.net>
To: <triumph_herald@yahoogroups.com>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>;
<spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 5:57 AM
Subject: It Runs, It Leaks.
> Well, the Herald actually runs. That part only took a few minutes, and a
little distributor fiddling. Sounded kinda off for a little while, till I
tapped both carb bowls with a ratchet- tapping the front one resulted in a
wonderfully harmonious sound, and much more even idle. Not to mention the
sound of power. I'd guess a stuck float needle, after sitting a year.
>
> Well, I ran her for about 20 minutes, hoping to get the temp up to
operating temp, but the gauge never moved. I checked the sender, and all
appears well there, so I will try an aftermarket gauge, to see if the
problem is there. I retorqued the head at this point, as she was good and
hot.
>
> It seems this car is marking territory already. I had noticed a leak when
I spun her over to get the oil circulated before starting, but I had hoped
it merely needed to "self seal" a dry gasket. No such luck- she has a class
2 leak from the front engine plate. Couldn't be the much easier to navigate
timing cover, could it! Nope. The front plate. So I can either try a quick
silicone fix, loosening the plate at the bottom and forcing silicone sealer
in, or, tearing the front end apart and doing it right. (However, doing it
right will involve liberally dosing the new gasket with silicone sealer,
both sides.)
>
> Looks like I lose another week of summer weather to play in. Still have to
do the window mechanisms, the hood, lower sills and finish the headlight
ring mountings. And now the front plate gasket. AAARRRGGGHHH!!!
>
> Last, but not least, I think my ignition switch may need replacement.
Shows a low voltage through to the starter solenoid when in the run
position.
>
> Soon I'll have a car to drive around in.
>
> Scott
> 64 Herald 1200 Convertible
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