At 04:26 PM 6/28/02 -0400, ZoboHerald@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated Fri, 28 Jun 2002 2:49:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>geohahn@ultrasw.com writes:
>
> >
> >
> > "McEwen, Art" wrote:
> >
> > > Silly question but: How am I supposed to set the timing on my 3
> without any
> > > gradient marks on the pulley?
> >
> > If you have a protractor handy (or a sixth grader who will lend you
> theirs) draw
> > a circle on a sheet of paper as close as you can come to the diameter
> of the
> > crank pulley (borrow their compass while you're at it). Then measure 4
> degrees
> > on the circle. This should give you a close enough feel for it that
> you can
> > eyeball the setting. As Randall noted, the best results come from
> driving and
> > stopping along the way and tweaking the thumb wheel.
> >
> > Or... ISTR that each tenth inch on the pulley circumference is about 2
> degrees.
> > Not precise but should get you in the ballpark.
>
>This might help a bit:
>
>"Timing Marks
>
>"Top Dead Centre Mark, hole drilled in
>fan pulley and pointer on timing cover.
>15 degrees before or after top dead centre =
>0.081" piston travel or 1.5" (measured round the
>flywheel adjacent to the starter teeth)."
>
>-- from the "Useful data [TR3]" section of the TSOA Handbook
><http://www.vtr.org/tsoa/handbook/tsoa9bg.htm>
>
>--Andy Mace
>
Another simple method is to steal the cloth type tape measure from your
wife's sewing basket (oops -- showing me era here) and measure the
circumference of the pulley. Then you can divide that measurement by 36
which will give you the dimension for ten degrees. You can then mark it
every ten degrees. I then use my micrometer calibrated left eyeball to
interpolate.
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