Darrell Walker writes:
> Q1: In some articles Ken Gillanders refers to Locktite "Stud Lock". I
> can't find any reference to this product on the Locktite web site. Does it
> go by another name? It appears to be a thread locker that you can use
> inside the crankcase. He recommends this when installing the rod bolts.
"Stud grade" Loctite is merely a generic term for one of their stronger
holding strengths. 242 allows the fastener to be removed. 262 is considered
permanent, and requires application of heat to remove the fastener. 242 is
blue and 262 is red. 242 is general purpose, with a breakaway torque of
about 10 lb-ft. 262 is heavy-duty, with a breakaway torque of about 28
lb-ft. Go to the Loctite site and search their technical data sheets and
those will supply you the information you need to determine which you
should use. If you don't mind the hassle of applying heat to get the bolts
out, use the 262. But, make sure you've done all the set-up and clearance
checking before you apply the threadlocker. Save that for the absolute
final assembly.
> Q2: The 4A (and later 4s) didn't use locking tabs to install the flywheel,
> but I'm installing an alloy flywheel. It doesn't seem like a good idea to
> use the bolts without washers, any reason that using grade 8 washers is a
> bad idea?
No. But, keep in mind that clearances may be an issue. Most specialty
fastener stores can supply you with a half-height hardened flatwasher which
would probably do the trick. I'm a bit surprised that there weren't any
mounting recommendations supplied with the aluminum flywheel, though.
> Q3: Does anyone have ARP numbers for rod bolts, main bolts and head studs
> for a 4A?
I don't, but I recall this being a recent subject on this list or the FOT
list.
Cheers.
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