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RE: TR4: overdrive click-click-clicking (long)

To: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: TR4: overdrive click-click-clicking (long)
From: Randall Young <ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM>
Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 09:50:50 -0700
> I decided to take another look at the overdrive after my 4 year
> old Ben noted that the new Mini Cooper S has 6 speeds (!) but
> the TR4 only has 4. I said "the TR4 has a magic switch that
> gives it 7 speeds!" He was clearly impressed, as the TR4 must
> be *much* faster than the new Mini -- "it goes to 7!" -- but
> unfortunately my magic switch doesn't work.

Well, 3rd OD is almost identical to 4th direct, so 6 speeds is probably
closer to the truth <g>

> If I'm coasting downhill, it'll engage almost immediately and
> behaves pretty much like I'd expect, dropping rpm's by a
> good bit. I think it's *really* engaged, though sometimes it feels
>  like it's actually "free floating" as if I was still stepping on the
> clutch pedal. In any case when I step on the gas, even to
> maintain speed, it'll slip out, sort of sliding back up to the
> *regular* rpm's again. This makes me think "o/d clutch" though
> maybe it means "not enough pressure".

It's marginally possible it's the clutch, but much more likely it's low oil
pressure (possibly caused by 'correct' valve adjustment, more on that
later).

> 1. is the click-click-click-click phenomenon a helpful clue, and
> if so, what does it mean?

The clicking probably indicates an electrical problem, most likely a bad
connection somewhere.  I doubt this is related to your slipping problem.
(In spite of Occam, LBCs do suffer multiple simultaneous failures!)

> 2. I haven't removed and cleaned the filter yet. It looks like I
> just remove the plug on the bottom, remove the bolt and filter.
> Right?

Your OD will most likely not have the bolt.  Otherwise, you're exactly
correct.  Note that plug is also the drain plug, almost all of the oil is
going to run out.  Might as well pull the gearbox drain plug at the same
time ... although there's only a pint or so still in the gearbox, you should
probably change it all.

> 3. anything else I should do that doesn't require disassembly of
> parts that are useful for driving to the grocery store?

If you're serious about making the OD work, you should probably plan on
pulling the trans tunnel, and leaving it off for awhile.  As long as you
keep your hands (and groceries) away from the U-joint, and don't drive
through any puddles, you can drive to the grocery store without it.

> 4. if you had to guess, what do you think the problem is: o/d
> clutch, hydraulics, solenoid, relay, switch, or current or past
> owner?

My first guess would be valve adjustment.  As has been commented many times
on this list, the 'book' procedure for setting the operating valve
frequently does not work.  The simple test for this problem is operating the
lever by hand to see if the OD engages.  Unfortunately, since yours
partially engages, it may be tough to tell the difference with the car on
jack stands.  Perhaps you can find some brave person to ride with you and
push on the lever as you drive up a hill.

The more direct test is to remove the operating valve plug, and measure how
far the valve ball rises when the solenoid is operated.  It should move at
least 1/32".  Note that a healthy solenoid will launch the ball into space,
so either put your thumb over the hole, or lift the solenoid plunger before
energizing the solenoid.  Fortunately the ball is a common size bearing
ball, I was able to find one at the local hardware store <g>

You'll unfortunately need to pull the trans tunnel for all of this.

Next most likely culprit is the OD pump anti-return valve.  Check out
http://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/od/delborder_od.html
for more details.  (Yes, that article was written for a big Healey, but the
ODs are almost identical).

If that doesn't solve the problem, it's time to get a pressure gage.  Bill
Bolton at Bolt-On Healeys was selling kits with the gage, hose and adapter
for around $50.  You might be able to make your own for a little less than
that, but Moss gets $27 just for the plug you'll need, then you'll need a
500 or 1000 psi gage and a way to couple it ...

BTW, the gage doesn't have to be oil-filled if you are only going to use it
a few times then put it on the shelf.  However, the oil-filled gages cost
only a little more, and last far longer in this application.  The OD
hydraulic pressure pulsates, and the constant motion will eventually wear
out an ordinary gage.

> 5. for grocery runs in a TR4 with two kids, which bags are
> better, paper or plastic?

I like plastic.  They can be stuffed into more odd-shaped spaces, and you
can tie the handles together to keep the groceries in the bag as they roll
around on the curves. :-/

Randall

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