I took Randall's que on this and it works great. I went to Radioshack and
bought a 10 ohm, 10 watt resistor (came two per package), and wired it in
at the fuse box using solder and shrink tubing. The red light is a little
dimmer, but who cares. When the revs drop to about 500 the light comes on,
any higher it goes out and the ammeter shows it's charging.
FYI, I bought another pulley from Moss and had my machine shop drill it
out. $15 for the pulley, $15 for labor. Remember to keep the generator, or
donate it to someone who needs it.
John in San Diego
'67 TR4A
On Wednesday, April 24, 2002 2:08 PM, Randall Young
[SMTP:ryoung@NAVCOMTECH.COM] wrote:
> > Pros: Cheap, semi-original looking, and you keep your wide belt.
> > Cons: The stock generator pully is somewhat large comparatively, and it
> > makes the alternator a little under-driven. I found my alternator
didn't
> > 'kick-in' until I reved the motor above 1300-1500 RPM
>
> I don't know if this would work for all alternators, but on mine I pretty
> much solved this problem by adding a resistor across the 'ignition' lamp
on
> the dash. If memory serves, it was 4 ohms, 5 watts (mostly because
that's
> what I had in the parts bin). The resistor also ensures that the
alternator
> will continue to work even if the bulb burns out. With the resistor and
an
> original pulley, my Ford alternator 'kicks in' as soon as the engine
fires,
> and will put out enough at idle to keep up with either the Xenon
headlamps,
> or the radiator fan (but not both). I've noted that my 1980 Chevy also
had
> such a resistor built into the wiring harness.
>
> Randall
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