Hi Larry
A starter sucks a lot of amps and this pulls down the voltage at the
battery. Some things to check: is your battery the right size (ampacity)?
With the jumpstart, each battery has to give less current and suffers
less voltage drop. That could be why two work but one doesn't.
Are all connections solid and clean: hot wire at battery / battery to frame
/
hot wire to solenoid / solenoid to starter?
It could be that your starter has an internal problem in the winding
causing it to pull more amps and / or not give enough torque.
Unless you have a big honking meter, you will have to take it
to a shop and have them measure current (amps).
Are there specs in your Haynes/Bentley, etc?
Or it may be your brushes, like you said ;-)
Jeff
Larry wrote
> my 72 gt6 has a newly rebuilt engine. it is, as i put some miles on it
(about
> 120 miles now) starting to cool down better. it was running hot, but now,
as
> long as i am moving (not at a red light) it stays on the lower half of
water
> temp range. if the engine is fully warm, and i stop to run into a store,
when
> i come out, the starter will not crank over. it just locks right up
(ruh).
> however, if i put jumper cables on the battery and jump it with another
car,
> it will crank. when the car is cold, it cranks fine. i swapped the
battery
> so it is not the battery. question - do you think the engine is still
just
> too tight and needs more breaking in ? or do you think the starter is
weak
> and needs rebuild / replace ? on rebuild, i think i can get brushes at
v.b.
> i have the starter #. it has 4 brushes triangular shaped down the bottom
of
> starter. anyone have experience rebuilding these starters ? just clean
it,
> replace brushes and oil shaft ? the brushes looked hard to get at and
replace
> - true ? thanks !!!! larry, lstein6@earthlink.net
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