> I will be starting to reassemble the front suspension
> on my 59 TR3A soon and had a quick question regarding
> the stub axle and verticle link. Both sides have the
> stub axle held firmly in the verticle link. What does
> it take to get them seperate? Just a bigger hammer??
You've removed the nut on the back, obviously, beyond that it just takes
lots of force. I made up a puller from a length of pipe and whatnot. Don't
pull them if you don't have to.
>
> Also, while I'm on the topic, how does one determine
> when the hub axle OR verticle link need replacing? Are
> there any measurements I could take?
In my case, the place where the outer wheel bearing sits on the axle was
measurably (with a micrometer) out of round. The inner race would actually
move up and down.
Herman van den Akker reported finding a vertical links that were apparently
bent, such that the hole for the upper ball joint was not in-line with the
trunnion. This was the source of hard steering on a car that had just had
the entire front suspension rebuilt. ISTR he said he looked at 6 used links
before finding a good one.
> They appear to be
> in good shape, to my untrained eye. I went ahead and
> got a front magic suspension kit from TRF that
> includes all bushings and trunnions. Are there any
> other components that often need replacing? (i.e. tie
> rod lever, upper fulcrum pin, etc...)
Definitely check the idler arm and steering box. The pins (both upper and
lower) should be OK, but might need replacing if the bushes were allowed to
wear completely out. It's not clear to me if the TRF kit includes all the
nyloc nuts, but they should all be replaced. Don't know if it's still the
case, but the trunnions I got were not drilled for cotter pins, so I used
nylocs on them, too.
The lower outer bushes have to be reamed (at least the ones I got did), you
might want to order a reamer. Personally, I've never had any luck with the
adjustable reamers with the sliding blades, so I just bought a fixed reamer
the right size. Being on a budget, I bought a 'chucking' reamer for about
$15 at Enco. My drill press chuck is big enough to hold it, but if yours
isn't, it's not too hard to file flats on the reamer and hold it in a vise.
Randall Young
59 TR3A TS39781LO daily driver (currently sidelined for rebuilt OD)
63 Sports 6 HB7826LCV rustoration project
et al
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