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DOT3 vs. silicone (longish)

To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: DOT3 vs. silicone (longish)
From: "Rick Barnard" <rstirb@townisp.com>
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2002 19:20:43 -0500
Hello List,
        There may be those that have strong opinions regarding 
glycol-based vs. silicone brake fluid on this list.  Just thought I might 
share what I have learned this spring.
        My car is a TR6 with about 6,000 miles, or 4 years now, on 
a frame-up rebuild.  All hydraulic components were new, or fresh 
rebuilt, including pipes, at that time.   
        As the New England driving season was coming to a close 
last fall, I noticed that the brake pedal in my TR6 was acting weird.  
The first application was OK, but a second press and the pedal went 
almost to the floor.  No amount of bleeding would correct this.
        Last month I decided to contact Apple Hydraulics about the 
brake MC that they had rebuilt for me.  I explained the symptoms, 
and the first thing they asked was if I was using silicon brake fluid.  
Yes, I was.  I sent the MC down to them.
        A week later, I got the MC back, with all rubbers replaced, 
no charge.  That's good customer service!   Apple now states that 
"hydraulic seals in British cylinders are not compatible with silicone.  
Use Castrol LMA or DOT 3 or 4".  They included a Spring, 1997 
reprint of a Ron Phillips article ("The Nut Behind the Wheel") 
suggesting that the silicone fluid will make seals "mushy" over time, 
when they need to stay "springy".
        So, I've bled out all the silicone, and replaced it with the old 
fashioned stuff.  I notice the pedal is harder; definitely not as 
spongy, now.  I like the positive feel of the clutch pedal, too.
        The trade-off is that the DOT 3 will absorb moisture, and eat 
paint.  So, I'll bleed it out every winter.  This stuff is cheap.  And I'll 
use a zillion rags to protect the paintwork.

        Just sharing my experiences,
                Rick
                1973 TR6 CF2570U

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