> 1) I'm hoping that this is one thing on my car that I *won't*
> have to replace.<g> But, since I have it out, I figured I'd
> better at least open it up and check the contents. What should I
> be looking for as far as likely candidates for problem areas?
Mostly the obvious : chipped or broken teeth, excess wear on the
countershaft bearings or thrust washers, etc. The early boxes have a pin
that locates the countershaft, the pin frequently wears out as does the
shaft itself.
> 2) Since the car was not running when I bought it, I have no road
> experience with this tranny. How can I test the tranny with it
> out of the car? I've heard of people attaching drills, etc. to
> drive the tranny. Does this really work/mean anything?
The 'drill' test is mostly for testing overdrives. You could try driving
the gearbox with a drill, and shifting into 2nd, 3rd and 4th to get some
idea if the synchros work (gears don't grind), but I have a feeling it
doesn't mean much with only a drill motor driving it.
> 3) What pieces/parts should I just automatically replace
> regardless of whether I do a complete rebuild?
If you tear down the box (ie remove the gears as opposed to just pulling the
top cover), IMO at the very least you should replace the 2nd gear synchro
ring.
Personally, I would install the TRF 'gearbox overhaul' kit, which is the
bearings, seals and synchro rings; plus the countershaft and it's locating
pin/bolt. Get a few spares for the circlip (P/N 55707) in case you don't
get it right the first time. Get a copy of the factory service manual, and
follow the directions on checking bushing clearances. Also I would tear
down the top cover and replace the sealing rings on the shifter shafts,
although since you don't have to pull the tranny to do that, you could leave
it for later if you want.
Check out the clutch shaft carefully, replace the taper pin and consider
installing a cross-bolt to reinforce the pin. Check the pins on the
throwout fork, and replace the TOB.
>
> 4) To save $$, I've decided that if the current non-OD tranny I
> have works, I will just use it, and forego the upgrade to OD for
> now. Is upgrading later just a matter of dropping the
> transmission out the bottom, and putting in the new one, or?
Not quite, all the TR2-6 require the gearbox be pulled through the interior.
Fortunately there isn't a lot to remove on a TR3, just seats, carpet and
trans tunnel. The other changes (reroute a different speedo cable, add
electrical wiring/relay, etc.) are easy to do later as well.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver TS39781LO
63 Sports 6 rustoration project HB7826LCV
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