Harry,
I also have a 74 and I used Nelson's article to rebuild my carbs.
On the vent lever, mine worked per Nelson's setup.
On the bypass valves, I found that to be the most confusing part of the
rebuild. Plus the diagram and the two gaskets do not come with the
standard rebuild kit. If your rebuild is recent, I'd be tempted to
remove the valves and verify, per Nelson's article, that they are
assembled correctly. I think they are held on by 3 or 4 screws and I
think you can clear the linkage for removal, but check.
Bill
Atlanta
74 TR6
As I continue to refine my carbs, several more question have come up.
To
start with, an update from my carb problems from the fall. I have two
carbs
that were rebuilt by the RSF plus a complete rebuild of my engine. I am
having a great problem of getting the car to run smoothly at idle. With
the
choke out, the car runs pretty smooth and at high RPMs the car is great,
but
coming off the throttle, the car dies. I thought the problem concerned
the
carbon canister, runon valve, and vaccum. After thoughly checking
these,
each of which proved to work correctly I started looking at the rebuilt
carbs. The problem really occured when the vent line to the left side
of the
carbs was connected. Using Nelson Riedel Carb Overhaul paper and Haynes
manual I think I have narrowed the problem to the vent lever with the
locking
screw on the left side of each carb. Nelson talk about the vent lever
adjusted to be vertical. In my research on the carbs, there are no
references, other than Nelsons', to how this is set nor what exactly
what it
does. As I play with the setting, it seems that whenever I move the
lever
more to the right, depressing the little plunger, that is when the car
will
die when the car is at idle. By moving the plunger, via the set screw
to the
left, the car runs well. Am I defeating the vent lever purposes by
moving it
so far to the left? Do I have another problem with this vent lever?
My second area that concerns me is the bypass valve and adusting it. I
have
the bypass valves that are not connected to the distributor with a
vaccuum
line and has the external adjustment screw. The literature I have read
talk
about adjusting the valve. It says to disconnect the vacuum retard line
to
the distributor and plug the line. This is the line that runs from the
base
of the carb to the distributor and speeds up the RPM by 500 rpm or so.
By
adjusting the bypass valve to get it to "float", you should be able to
get
the rpm to increase, but I can't. Has anybody mess with these valves
and
have any other suggestions???
Thanks in advance for any help.
Harry Mague
Beavercreek, OH
74 TR6
CF16623
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