Jeremy Chinn wrote:
>I believe I my have the dreaded clunk in the back of my 73 Six. I get a
>clunking sound upon putting the car in 1st or reverse and releasing the
>clutch. Considering the relatively new rear hubs, ujoints and rear end, it
>points me toward the rear end mounts.
>My question is this, what is the best way to check for this problem. Do I
>have to remove the diff or at least lower it to find the problem, or is
>there another way I have not thought of?
Jack up the car and remove the right rear wheel. Using a flashlight,
peer in from the wheel well and look carefully at the right forward
diff mount. If it's cracked, you should be able to see the crack (or
even feel the crack with your fingertip) along the edge of the
bracket. However, just because you don't see or feel the crack
doesn't necessarily mean that the mount hasn't begun to crack. This
is a great way to check it if indeed it's broken. The only POSITIVE
check is to pull the diff and inspect the mounts.
That clunk can be other things, too. My '73 TR6 diff clunks in the
same way you describe and the mounts have been repaired, UJs new,
hubs in good shape, etc. What's the source of the clunk? Either
it's excessive backlash in the differential (which has never been
rebuilt and is getting quite tired) or it's worn splines on the inner
axle shafts, or perhaps both. I've heard some say that there's no
such thing as a TR6 that doesn't clunk. I dunno if that's true, but
the clunking does seem to be a chronic TR6 problem.
>I am still having difficulty with my recently rebuilt transmission. The
>symptom is a very baulky downshift to 2nd gear. Sometimes the shift is
>pretty good, othertimes it just won't go. Several have suggested that this
>is because of poor quality synchronizer cups installed at the rebuild. The
>other suggestions have mostly centered around poor tolerances related to the
>thrust washers I put in on the main shaft.
>I know all of these can be measured simply with the tranny top cover off.
>What I cannot remember is if the top cover can be removed with the tranny
>in-situ? (I would rather pull just the top cover and measure, than pully the
>whole tranny because I live in an apartment complex and must 'rent' a
>working space while the tranny is out-obviously, the shorter the time the
>better!)
Yes, you can remove the top cover while the 'box is in the car.
However, I would think that it would be very difficult to measure
anything but synchro clearance while it's in the car. And anyway, it
seems clear to me that if you are going to fix that balky downshift,
you're going to have to remove the 'box one way or another.
--
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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