Francois --
I've disassembled two steering boxes, and the worms on both looked
perfectly good. No chips, nothing. Maybe I was just lucky - I also
have no idea of the mileage those boxes went through.
On the steering peg - I recommend, as you plan to, that you replace
the peg. I did not replace mine at first, and I was surprised at how
much steering slop a seeming insignificant amount of wear on the pin
caused.
To replace it - it is a press fit. I pushed mine out with a bench
vise and two sockets; one was a very small one that I used as the
pusher, while the other was a deep well socket just large enough to
fit over the conical portion of the pin. A third hand is helpful
when getting things aligned in the vise - and as always, wear safety
glasses.
Exercise care on reassembly. I was able to simply push the pin in
with a vise and some small wood pieces to prevent scufffing. Make
sure it goes in straight, as the pin is a hardened metal while the
arm is a a relatively soft casting.
HTH!
Dan
>I have dismantled a TR3 steering box that I want to rebuild for a
>later swap on my car. I have the following questions:
>
>a) the worm looks a bit scary: the surface of the cylinder (between
>the race) is chipped. It looks like the peg got worn and started
>applying a lot of pressure just on the edge of the race and
>eventually this edge failed. Is that typical? I remember Randall
>saying that his 'looked chewed by the steel rats' or something. The
>race itself does not look too bad.
>b) the rocker shaft is scuffed, but mostly in the upper part, where
>the bearing is formed by the box casting, not by the replaceable
>bronze bushing. There the wear (oval) is about 0.002. Is this
>someting to worry about or does the bronze bushing carry the whole
>load when reconditionned? The shaft is smooth (0.0002) at the
>location of the bronze bushing. Where would you go to have the rocker
>arm reground if possible at all?
>
>c) is the peg on the rocker arm pressed in or expanded on the top
>like a rivet? I.e. Should I be able to drive it out without drilling
>out the part opposite to the peg itself?
>
>Thanks
>Francois
--
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Dan Buettner mailto:danb@thelittlemacshop.com
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