jeffrey,
If the HS6 master kit is the same as the H6 "SU Master kit" and comes with the
teflon coated steel bushings instead of the brass bushings you can rebush your
carbs without the reamer. Some of the brass bushings that come in these kits
have to be reamed after installation. The difference on install is for the
brass bushings the carb body has some splines( these must be removed for the
steel bushing) in the hole to hold the bushing in place so when you drill out
the old bushing you use a drill 1/64 smaller than the bushing (use a drill stop
set to the correct depth). This leaves the factory splines in place and a small
amount of the old bushing must be pealed out of the carb body with a dental
pick or similar tool ( this method insures that you will not damage the carb
body). Then the new brass bushing is pressed in place but because the splines
distort the new brass bush slightly the will need the be reamed.
My drill press set up was similar to Randall but I didn't have a drill center
to work with. So I drilled a through the thickest part of my drill press table
to the same size the throttle shaft, I then used a old shaft in the chuck to
align the table and chuck with enough space for the carb body and the larger
drill bit. I then slide the shaft through the table and the both sides of the
carb body just below the bushing you are going to drill out, I held the shaft
in place with a small set of needle nose vice grips through the throat of the
carb. I then drilled the carb 1/64 smaller than the new bush as described
above, but as I had the steel bushings I then changed bits to the same size as
the bushing and carefully turned the drill chuck by hand to remove the splines
in the bottom from the hole. Installation was the same as Randall described
except I installed each bushing as I drilled them out so that my alignment for
the second bushing was off the one I had just installed on the other side.
One of my shafts needed to be run in the other was a perfect fit.
Once you figure out a good jig for doing the job it is fairly easy to do.
Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet
>Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2002 21:53:40 -0800
>From: "Randall Young" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
>Subject: RE: HS6 Carb Body Rebush; How?
>
>With extreme care and a generous dollop of luck, you can rebush them
>accurately enough that a reamer is not necessary. What I did :
>
>Clamp a piece of wood to the drill press table, clamp the table in place.
>The table has to not be unclamped, so you must leave enough room between it
>and the chuck for the following process. Using a long bit, drill a suitable
>hole in the piece of wood to take the shank of a center. I used a 5 flute
>countersink for a center, since it was what I had. Now chuck up a short
>drill bit the same size as the od of the new bushing. ISTR it was 7/16",
>but I'm not certain. Measure the required hole depth, you want to leave a
>thin wall of original metal between the bottom of the hole and the carb
>throat. I used masking tape to mark the drill bit as my stop rod is not
>reliable.
>
>Now carefully holding the carb body with one hole engaged on the center on
>the table, drill into the body on the other side to the marked depth. Since
>you haven't disturbed the table, the holes should be aligned. Smear a
>little Loctite on the new bushing, and press it into place (I used my bench
>vise with smooth jaws). Enjoy your favorite beverage while the Loctite
>sets, and then repeat the process for the other side.
>
>If you can get the new shaft to go into both bushings but it's a bit tight,
>you can run it in using a drill motor to turn the shaft. In my case, I
>couldn't even get the shaft in place on the first carb, so I borrowed a
>5/16" valve guide reamer from a friend and used the shaft of the reamer as a
>pilot, by wrapping a few turns of 'scotch' tape around it and running it
>through the carb first, then putting a wrench on the other side. My second
>carb did not need reaming (or running in) at all.
>
>These were H6, but I believe the HS6 should be similar.
>
>Randall
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