Hugh:
Having just pulled my engine and transmission last month to strip, paint
and detail the engine bay and freshen up the motor, I'll share my
experience with you, but I'll tell you in advance that you shouldn't
encounter any problems in the process.
Engine stand: 1/2 inch pipe should work just fine. Mine are about 3 1/2
inches long. Use grade eight hardware (Home Depot, Lowes - cheap) and
bolt it to the rear plate at four points.
Engine removal: I removed the engine and transmission together. It was
easy. No problems. Generally follow the steps in the book(s). I read
both Haynes and Bentley. You really need two people to help guide the
engine out. I recommend that you buy one of those mechanisms that attach
to the crane to allow you to tilt the engine. The engine/trans gets
tilted about 35 to 45 degrees as you're pulling it out of the car.
Removing the transmission: Again, very straight forward. It's aluminum.
After its unbolted, just carry it away. You'll have to remove the clutch
and flywheel, naturally. When you remove the transmission, be certain to
check the condition of the fork, throwout bearing guide pins and the pin
that locks the fork to the clutch shaft. I decided to replace everything
including the clutch, plate, throwout bearing, etc. Don't want to tell
you more than you asked for.
Gotchas: As you disassemble, make drawings, write notes and take lots of
pictures. Bag and label everything. If you're planning to tear down the
motor yourself, let me (the group) know and I'll tell you what issues I
confronted - though none were serious.
Reinstallation: Haven't done it yet, so I can't say, but I'll be glad to
share how it goes including any stupid things I do along the way so you
won't have to repeat them.
I've really enjoyed the process so far and I'm sure you will too.
Bob Fabie
Fredericksburg, Va
'75 TR6
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