Pete,
Isn't it possible that your problem is still with the rotor, but due to an
"open" rather than a "short"? That is, no current flowing through the rotor
or not making it out of the rotor to the distributor cap contacts? I'd
throw in a new one, and a new distributor cap just to make sure. JMHO.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete & Aprille Chadwell" <pandachadwell@mac.com>
To: "Triumphs Mailing List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2002 3:44 PM
Subject: More TR6 Ignition Problems
> I'm still trying to get my TR6 started again. I was concerned about
> my electronic ignition (Allison XR700) so I finally removed it from
> the picture and reinstalled the OEM points and condenser. I've got
> 12 volts on the white wire (which originates at the ignition switch)
> that's connected to the + side of the coil. (key on) I've set the
> gap to .015" on the breaker points. Even if the dwell isn't quite
> right, it oughtta at least START. Also, at Randall Young's request,
> I tested the rotor to see if it was shorting to ground, and it is
> not. Now if I pull the coil wire at the distributor end and situate
> it near a ground and crank the engine, I see sparks. Randall had
> pointed out that I should see 3 sparks per revolution. Well, that's
> probably about right, but it's kind of hard to count. But when I
> connect that coil wire back to the dizzy and crank the motor I get no
> spark. I know there's no spark because I've hooked up my timing
> light, pull the trigger and then crank the starter and I get no
> flashes. To me, this means that something is not providing the
> ground contact somewhere to allow that current to flow from the coil.
> When I pulled the coil wire, I put it right next to a ground and
> proved that the coil is functioning. At least I think that's what
> I've proven.
>
> Anyone have any ideas? Meanwhile I'll stick my nose back into Dan
> Masters' book and see if anything presents itself.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> Pete Chadwell
> 1973 TR6
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