> I have the original wire harness in my TR3A since new. A couple of times
I
> smelled funny burning smells and shut everything off to find the problem.
> The ammeter on the dash was blipping at the same time. It was associated
> with the flasher relay. I disconnected it and got home OK. The other
time
> was way back in the early 60's when my heater rheostat got fried. I got
> home without my heater on.
>
> So if the systems, fuses and wiring + connectors are in good shape, an
> original set-up should pose no real problems.
>
> Don Elliott, 1958 TR3A
> Montreal, Canada
>
> a Wallace <wallaces@superaje.com> wrote
>
> > David,
> > I took a look under the hoods of a bunch of the vintage cars rallying
> > around the world in 80 days, and every one that I looked at had a
> > modern-style fuse block with the blade-type fuses in it. I take it
> > therefore that that is a reliable system, and am debating whether to go
> > this route myself. The "two fuses protected by a wiring harness" system,
> as
> > originally installed, doesn't appeal to me much, as I like the idea of
> > knowing where to start looking when a certain fuse blows.
> > All the above only applies of course if you are willing to sacrifice
> > originality.
> > Regards,
> > Jim
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > ....So if I understand you correctly, given that I will have a "fresh"
> > system everything should work correctly and meltdown is something that
> > should not occur under normal cicumstances. With the addition of the
> inline
> > fuse under the dash for the rear lights, I will be adding that much more
> > safety? Or should I consider more? Of course there is putting in a fuse
> > block somewhere would be the ideal.
> > David
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