SDOliner@aol.com wrote:
>
> So for now I am replacing the pistons rings and wrist pins, using the old
> rods,
Hope you had the one from the broken cylinder checked for straightness.
> had the head repaired and magnafluxed, and replacing the rod bearings,
> just for the heck of it. I didn't plastigague for clearance, and I suspect
> that this would OK, since the car ran at 40 to 50 PSI. Still I think at this
> point not much sense to put in old bearings.
I agree about not putting back old bearings, but I always plastigage new
inserts. I've never found a problem, but I'd much rather check and not
have a problem, than not check and have one.
> but kind of
> sloppy, don't you think?
Yes.
> I think I am going to put the rods back in the way they came out of the
> engine.
Why ?
>
> I haven't pulled the main bearing caps (yet), but if needed is it possible to
> replace the main bearings without dropping the crankcase?
Yes, it's possible, not even particularly difficult. IMO it's worth
doing just because you have the pan off. There is a gasket in front of
the front main cap that will tear, so just remove as much as you can,
and fill with your favorite "Form a gasket". You may need to fabricate
a puller for the front & rear caps, but I've usually found that I can
get them out by wiggling a bit. Only remove one cap at a time, so the
crank never hangs on the seals. I prefer to take one of the lower
inserts, and flatten it a bit to form a drift to gently tap the upper
inserts out with. Once they're out by 1/2" or so, you can pinch them
against the crank and roll the crank to pull them completely out.
Installation is the reverse, but keep in mind they only go in/out one
way, because of the key. Don't forget to replace the sealer-soaked felt
in the rear cap, tamping it tightly into place after the cap is replaced
and torqued.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
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