Carl,
The rack boots arrived today via UPS from Moss. The first thing I noticed
about the kit was that one of the boots had a larger opening at one end (for
the driver's side where it must fit over the rack and pinion body. This was
the side I was concerned about, because it looked like the old boot that I
took off had the same size opening as the one on the passenger's side.
Well, I greased everything up, and had the boot in place within 5 minutes.
It was actually the passenger's side boot that gave me fits. The inside
opening on it was smaller, and a real bear to get over the ball joint on the
rack. I could stretch it out pretty good, but before I got it to the joint,
I ran out of hand room. It finally dawned on me to turn the steering wheel
and move the rack all the way to that side, thus getting the ball joint out
further into the wheel well. It was still a bit of a struggle, but I
finally got it over the hump.
Anyway, thanks for all your (everyone else's) help. My new tie-rod end
pieces should arrive tomorrow, then I'll be back on the road!
Kurtis J.
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4
http://www.geocities.com/tr4_1963/
----- Original Message -----
From: <CarlSereda@aol.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 1:48 PM
Subject: TR4 rack boots
> Kurtis,
> I don't know if others had such a difficult time installing rack boots -
> certainly my adding grease to rack bar prior to assembly made it extremely
> trying once it spread everywhere - even with the entire assembly on the
work
> bench. You might be able to do your's in position - dry or with very
minimum
> of grease!. If not - yank it out - there is only the two rack mounts, the
> u-joint, a ground wire attached to grease nut at pinion, and the rod ends
to
> remove. (remember the rubber rack mounts on reasembly need to be forced
hard
> toward the outsides of the car as you tighten brackets or you'll have play
at
> the mounts.
>
> I am not sure of how the body/frame obstacles would impact removal - my
car
> is totally stripped.
> If you think the ball joints are too sloppy repairs off the car the best
way
> - but now, if not already, we're getting into heavier 'shipwrights
desease'!
> (getting involved in taking more and more and more apart - like I did
until
> every single bolt is off the entire car!). Perhaps you're well aware of
this
> syndrome already! It's helpfull to have another 'daily driver'.
>
> Don't know about your's but my rack had close to 200,000 miles of use -
the
> rack, pinion gear, tube bushing, ball joints all needed to be replaced/or
> restored (new pinion gear extremely rare but got lucky and found NOS TR6
> pinion that fits the later TR4 racks). The rack and pinion teeth usually
wear
> in the straight ahead driving position. You may notice some slop at the
> steering wheel when positioned straight ahead and tighter gear mesh as you
> turn out either way. I ended up buying a good toothed used rack bar for
$85,
> then saved $15 by rotating the inner 'tube-end bushing' to access some
> un-worn friction area, I added the TR4A nylon anti-rattle button (the
higher
> roll-center of TR4As created different geometry of lower wishbone arms
> resulting in some rack rattling and this may not be necessary for a TR4
but I
> did it anyway), I bought the TR6 pinion for $35 from Moss UK (before they
> merged with Moss USA). I was able to restore the ball joints - mostly by
> taking out shims from their packing. I had to rework the ball on one side
to
> get it round again (worn flat spots were due to dirt penetration).
>
> ...thought maybe next time I would be better off just exchanging for a TRF
> rebuilt rack for $225 although they don't give you the ball joints and
most
> likely not a new pinion gear/rack - I don't know how they can fix those
worn
> teeth besides just cranking down on the spring loaded rack bar tensioner.
>
> Well there you have it - hopes this helps!
>
> Carl
> '63 TR4 since '74 CT 22326L-O
>
> >>Until you mentioned the problems you had getting the rack boots on, I
hadn't
> really given the difficulty of the task that much thought. I've taken the
> old boots off (both worn torn in a couple of places, but there was still
> plenty of grease around the ball joint connections, and noticeable play in
> the connections). It looks like the driver's side boot is going to be the
> bear.
> Kurtis J.
> Russellville, Arkansas
> 1963 TR4
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