Hi John,
I did not know about that method of locating TDC, and will check mine out
today if I get the chance.
Regarding the exhaust: if your system happens to be close to ready for
replacement, I would recommend switching to the style that goes down and
back under the running board. You can get one rigged up for very little
outlay (here at least it's $30 Cdn for the complete one-piece unit from the
manifold to the back), there won't be any fuel pooling as there is no
U-shaped piece, and it keeps your right leg nice and warm.
I am not familiar with the term kidney brakes, but I expect yours must the
same as mine (your brakes, that is). I recently had one rear wheel and drum
off, and then and only then it all became clear. Be careful not to
overstress things before you see what's happening in there because the cogs
of the adjuster wheel are brass! I would recommend going in, as it will
also let you see whether your brake shoes are soaked in oil - mine were, so
I wiped them off, and it stops much better now.
My rear tires are loaded but with care it was possible to roll the one a
few feet out of the way without it toppling over and pinning me to the ground.
The centraliser bolt, to which the hex nut is attached, is easy to snap
off, and it has an unusual head inside so can't be replaced with any bolt
you may have around. (I had to add a blob of mig weld to a normal bolt and
go at it with a grinder and file - you know the routine, the twenty minute
job that you start in the morning and barely finish by nightfall.) It holds
the sliding adjustment mechanism in place.
According to the I&T manual, you "loosen the nut on the centraliser bolt,
then turn the crown wheel (the square brass one), until a medium to heavy
drag is obtained when rotating the brake drum. Tighten the centraliser nut,
then back off the crown wheel until there is no drag. Equalise the brakes
by backing off the crown wheel on the tight brake."
If this sounds like it doesn't make any sense, I agree. As I say, taking
the drum off is the way to go.
On another note, and to reconnect a bit with LBCs, I suspect these old
girls have the same long-nose starters as found on TR2s. One of mine is at
the rebuild shop as we speak, where the fellow claims he can get the
various bits he needs, and even straighten its bent shaft. We'll see about
that, but if my hunch about hem being common to TR2s is accurate maybe I
will be able to track down his source of parts for these starters, for
those who may need them.
So if someone could supply the numbers stamped into the casing of their
long-nose starter, I'll check and see if they match.
Thanks,
Jim
TR3a TS81417L
TEA20 273833
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
From: "John Macartney" <jonmac@ndirect.co.uk>
...Interesting route to finding TDC is to locate a plug on the flywheel
housing just above the starter and poke a cross-head screwdriver through
until it drops into a pre-drilled hole on the flywheel. That's TDC....
...a build-up of unburnt fuel accumulated in the U bend off the exhaust
manifold that feeds straight into the vertical exhaust....there was a
catastrophic bang and an eight foot flame shot out of the silencer and
rapidly made its way towards an enviable collection of this year's hay that
was in the loft above....
Does anyone have any experience of adjusting kidney brakes - my
profanities are beginning to upset old ladies who are near neighbours.
Jonmac
MG 4305 DLO 1970 Triumph 2.5PI
TED 152318 1950 Ferguson TED20
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
|