Geo Hahn wrote:
>
> I used marine-grade Lubriplate to grease the hubs as it is not too thick but
>is
> waterproof.
IMO that's fine. The splines and threads should definitely be lubed,
but (again IMO) it's best not to lube the tapered area of the hub,
wheel, and knockoff.
>
> I only tightened the knock-off slightly past hand tight as the lefty/righty
> arrangement would seem to cause them to (if anything) tighten further as you
> drive.
It's been a long time, but I used to only put mine on hand-tight, it
still took a hammer to remove them after driving.
> For 'whacking' I used a block of soft wood against the ear and hit it
> with a 3 lbs. dead-blow hammer.
Mine seemed to wind up too tight to remove this way. The wood would
split before the KO moved.
> Used a 3 lbs. so it was more of
> a tap than a whack.
I eventually got a lead hammer, made by casting old wheel weights around
a length of 1" gas pipe. Worked well, with minimal damage to the KOs.
Although the 'ears' did deform a little, the chrome remained intact.
ISTR weight was around 3 lbs, but it could've been 5.
HF sells a combo rawhide/lead hammer, with replaceable faces, that seems
like it might work well. Start with the rawhide face, if that doesn't
work, switch to the lead.
The wires on my current car were bad when I got it, I've run disc wheels
ever since. They sure are a lot less trouble!
Randall
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