> The pedal won't hold pressure.
Do you mean the clutch releases at first, and then if you hold the pedal
down it eventually re-engages ? Unless you can see a leak somewhere, that
means the return valve inside the master cylinder is leaking. A MC rebuild
should fix it.
> Do you have to adjust the
> fork & plunger on the master & slave.
The MC fork should need adjustment only once (if you've disturbed the pedal
mounting or whatever), the slave fork needs to be adjusted periodically as
the clutch wears. In both cases, you need a little freeplay, but only a
little.
> Also I have the plunger in the
> bottom hole of the arm coming off the clutch to the slave.
IMO the main thing is to have the push rod in-line with the slave cylinder
axis. ISTR the middle hole is the 'correct' one on a TR3.
> And just one
> more thing my resevior is a little leaky...does that matter????
Well, if you're using DOT 3/4 brake fluid, it's eating the paint (and likely
causing rust) in all sorts of unusual places. If it's DOT 5, then I'd say
your biggest concern is always having to buy more <g>
My reservoir always seems to leak a bit when I'm having problems. Seems
that, if I have to "pump up" either the brakes or the clutch, when I release
the pedal, the fluid rushing back into the reservoir will fountain up and
find it's way out of the vent hole in the cap.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
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