Jim Muller wrote:
>To adjust it you have to move either ball joint forward or backward w.r.t. the
>other, and to do this you have several possibilities, none simple. On
>either upper or lower A-arm: 1. Remount the A-arm bracket slightly forward
>or backward on the frame; 2. Re-bush the pivot bolt that holds the A-arm to
>its bracket on the frame so that the A-arm sits further forward or
>backwards; 3. Re-shape the A-arm by lengthening or shortening one of the
>legs of the triangle so as to move the outer end forward or backwards; 4. Re-
>position the trunnion or ball joint where it is held at the outer end of the
>A-arm so as to move it forward or backwards.
The last time I had a 4-wheel alignment (immediately after a
suspension rebuild) I asked the guy at the alignment shop how he
would adjust castor since there didn't appear to be any designed-in
adjustment in the car. And incidentally, the castor values were
out-of-spec when I brought the car in. (this was 12 years ago, so
don't ask by how much!) He said that he could adjust the castor by
adding/subtracting shims from behind the fore/aft lower wishbone
brackets, removing shims from the FRONT lower wishbone brackets and
adding shims at the REAR lower wishbone brackets, for instance, would
tend to increase castor while the reverse would decrease castor. Of
course, this is not that simple to do because those shims effect
camber to a much greater extent than they effect castor. However,
this guy was able to reach a 'happy medium' between the camber and
castor specs so that we ended up with camber that was about 1/2 deg
negative and a castor value that was very close to the factory spec
and more importantly, EQUAL on both sides of the car. As I recall,
he couldn't quite get as much positive castor as the factory specs
called for, but he had to find a castor value he could reach on BOTH
sides of the car and go with it.
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