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Re: Oops, TR4A engine won't turn ...

To: "\"Kevin O'Driscoll\"" <ko3@columbia.edu>
Subject: Re: Oops, TR4A engine won't turn ...
From: "Ben/Pam Zwissler" <zwissler@hsonline.net>
Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 10:58:21 -0500
Cc: "Triumph Mail List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Kevin,

You're right, you may have created a problem for yourself.  My experience
with these engines is that the pistons will lock solidly in the sleeves if
the engine isn't turned over every few months.  I've had at least three or
four come to me this way.  The full skirted pistons seem to easily corrode
themselves into place.  I've got a rebuilt and never run engine that I've
kept stored for 10 years that still turns easily, but a few times a year I
squirt oil into the plugs holes and turn it over a few times.  I've seen
"good used" engines lock up in a year when stored outside with no
preparation and no maintenance.

Anyway, I'd continue what you're doing.  Squirt some penetrating oil into
the spark plug holes.  Enough to be sure its covering the entire top of the
piston and repeat this every day or so.  Continue to try and turn over the
engine, but don't use excessive force. The starter is OK, or turning with
the fan.  Make sure to leave the spark plugs out, you don't want to
hydraulic lock the engine.  I've never had any luck freeing a stuck engine
without disassembly, but its worth a shot since you know the engine was
good.   I wouldn't hold out much hope though, because even if the pistons
free up, the rings may be locked in the grooves and then you won't have any
compression.

If you can't get it loose you have two choices.  Disassemble the engine and
(1) try and free the pistons and reuse them and the sleeves or (2) just buy
new sleeves and pistons.  I've had the best luck freeing pistons by
positioning them upside down and soaking them.  This lets the oil pentrate
through the oil ring and slots in the piston skirt.  Soaking from the top,
the oil has to work past the compression rings.  If you've got plenty of
time and patience, you can generally get them loose, but I usually end up
cracking at least one piston or sleeve in the process.

If it was me, I'd try to loosen it up for a week or so and then, if that
doesn't work, go straight for set of new pistons/sleeves.  You can spend
weeks or months trying to get it loose and then still break something in the
process.  You'll still have to get the pistons out of the sleeves to recover
the connecting rods, though.  With any luck, your's isn't too frozen yet and
will come loose quickly.

Good luck.  Sorry I couldn't offer a "magic" fix, maybe someone else will
have one.

Ben Zwissler
zwissler@hsonline.net
Columbus, IN
66 TR4A IRS OD
80 TR8

>Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 22:31:26 -0400 (EDT)
>From: "Kevin  O'Driscoll" <ko3@columbia.edu>
>Subject: Oops, TR4A engine won't turn ...

>I think I did a stupid thing when I stored my car three years ago
at the beginning of the restoration. I had a strong running engine with
good compression in all four cylinders and good oil pressure too. When I
disassmbled most of the car I just drained the water from the engine and
squirted a little engine oil into the spark plug holes, leaving the engine
oil in the sump.  I left the engine in the car all that time and have
recently gotten to putting things back together.   The engine didn't want
to turn over manually by applying pressure to the flywheel, or by trying
to leverage the fan. I then squirted some liquid wrench into the spark
plug holes and into the intake and exhaust ports. Still didn't want to
turn over manyally, so I bolted up the starter and put 12 volts across it
but nothing happened.  What to do next?  At this point the body is still
sitting two feet above the frame, but the suspension and drivetrain are
all together.  Any and all advice is gladly accepted.
>- -Kevin

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