Message text written by "Bob Swafford"
>I've checked all of the connections, swapped coils, etc. all to no avail.
So,
this evening, I broke out the test light and the multimeter and started
poking
around. I'm at a loss at this point. Cranking the engine with the
distributor cap removed shows no spark at the points. Yet, with the switch
on, and the test light clipped to the positive side of the coil, I can see
the
voltage come and go when I operate the points. I regapped, changed the
condesor and still no joy.
<
Bob, Does the test light extinguish completely or does it glow dimly when
the contacts are closed? Your system is fitted with a ballast resistor
which shlould drop the voltage at the positive side of the coil from 12
volts to about 8 or 9. This should be enough to light the test light dimly
at worst. This ballast wire is not copper (most likely nichrome) and as
such the dis-similar metal situation at teh connectors may have conspired
for a poor connection and it will not allow current to flow as it should.
The voltage at the negative terminal will drive all the way to zero but the
positive terminal should always have some voltage on it.
Also, check the condensor.
Good luck
Dave Massey
71 TR6
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