Bill:
If it's only a crack on the neck, why not have it soldered at a radiator
shop?
Heck, I'd even give JB Weld epoxy a shot at it. I once fixed a cracked
alternator case with this stuff! The 13 psi cap shouldn't be any problem.
Paul Burr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Elliott" <wcelliot@concentric.net>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2001 6:52 PM
Subject: TR6 Radiators
> Yesterday while driving my '71 TR6 (just about the only British car I've
> ever owned that absolutely WILL NOT overheat, even in parades) I smelled
> coolant. Upon inspection, I found coolant seeping from the the raditor
> cap. After it cooled down, I pulled the very original-looking cap and
> the gasket was indeed rather deteriorated.
>
> But the real problem was that the radiator neck had cracked where the
> cap goes on. Bummer. No car show for the TR6 tomorrow!
>
> So 2 questions:
>
> 1. Is there a "preferred" radiator out there? (I've found a company
> that carries the Moss version at $212; TRF is a bit more, but if there's
> a difference I want to buy the best, not just the cheapest.)
>
> 2. My original-looking cap is 13psi. The books show that a '71 should be
> 7psi; only laters had a 13. Since I've had no problems running a 13psi
> cap (for several years) is there any reason I shouldn't continue to run
> it? Were any other changes made in '72 to support the 13psi cap?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bill Elliott
> Lake Barrington, IL
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