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Hypothetical TR3 rebuild te.net>

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Subject: Hypothetical TR3 rebuild te.net>
From: Jeffrey Barteet <barteet@barteet.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:30:46 -0700 (PDT)
Hey,

I think I saw one very crucial thing omitted there....

Balance the entire reciprocating mass assembly.

My machine shop balanced the crank, flywheel and pressure plate, and I had
the rods balanced end for end.  

That cost around $150 for the whole shooting match, and I'd highly
reccomend it for any rebuild, not just a performance one.

You're also supposed to have the rods magnafluxed and shot-peened to
reduce surface tension. ( I did )

An excellent resource for a performance engine rebuild is the Standard
Triumph TR 2-4a tuning manual that outlines all of Kas Kastner's 'secrets'
from racing TRs back in the 60s.  However, remember that Kas was building
race motors and not street motors before you go and shave .070" off your
head. He has a section in the back on what to do for a hot street car.

Terri-Ann's website has a wealth of information on it with links to even
more...AND Kas Kastner has given it a thumbs up! 

Hmmm.......what else?

I used the AE Brand 87mm pistons available from several sources, but I've
heard good things about the Mahle pistons too. 

Don't get forged pistons for a street motor I'm told, as they require more
clearance between the piston and cylinder wall to accomodate expansion and
they're quite noisy on a street car.

You can get pistons all the way up to 92mm and perhaps beyond from some UK
suppliers.  I'm told Ken Gilanders can get 'em for you here but they're
somewhat expensive I've heard.

If you've got an unlimited budget, pop for some alloy Carillo Rods. Budget
$800-900 for the set. Then you won't have to tear the motor down again
when you start racing. <grin>

And if your unlimited budget is still around after those rods, you might
consider an alloy flywheel.  Another $325.

I went to an electric fan and omitted the front fan extension hub after I
reassembled the engine and drove it for a while and there was a noticible
difference in how the engine felt and reved. You'll have the radiator out
while the engine is out anyway, so it's a good time to re-engineer your
fan system if you so desire.

Whatever you do with your fans, I would discourage re-using the 10 lb.
stock 4-blade fan that came on your little beastie. If you stay with the
crank driven fan, consider the TR 250 yellow plastic fan.  Lots more
movement of air over the stock steel\aluminum one and several pounds
lighter.

Also consider a solid copper head gasket from Mordy Dunst's company:

http://www.headgasket.com/

The gasket costs around $50 and is truly a work of art. Vastly superior
heat transmission from head to block over the copper\asbestos sandwitch
stock unit which costs something like $25 I seem to recall. You benefit
from Mordy's racing experience too, as he races a 4a in VARA.  Kewl!

-jeffrey 

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