>Let's talk about something more interesting. Suppose I had a TR3A that
>I wanted
>to hop up a bit (I don't, but I might have found a good home for my 66
>TR-4A which
>would free up garage space and capital), what should I consider doing,
>ranked
>by "bang for the buck"? For this exercise, you can assume the following:
>
>1. Going to rebuild everything anyway
>2. Desired outcome is a fun, street-able, street-legal (at least at a
>casual glance) car
Starting from the bottom & going up:
1. Optional finned aluminum oil sump
2. Cross drill crank oil passages at bearings, have crank nitrided
3. Replace stock fan with harmonic dampener meant to tame the harmonic
just over 5000 RPM
4. lightened or aluminum flywheel
5. 87mm pistons & liners
8. 280 degree cam ground to peak at 6000 RPM and have a long flatish top
8A. New lifters that have been hardness tested to Rockwell 54 hardness or
above
9.If you have the bucks get Moss's new aluminum head, if not you want the
latest TR5A head with the 1-1/2 dia intake ports.
For a stock head:
9A. shave head per Kas's competition prep book for 10:1 compression,
including cutting away the shrouding around the spark plug
9B. open up the exhaust passages slightly
9C. open up the intake and exhaust pockets slightly and install hardened
seats upside down so that the seats slants from the valve pocket to the
chamber. grind the valve seats. The result you are looking for a a wide
smooth valve pocket and a hardened seat that acts as a venturi to speed
up the mixture past the valve opening.
9D. GO to an oversize exhaust valve
9E. After you cut out the head shrouding around the head you need to
match the head to a new metal head gasket and carefully cut away the part
of the gasket that would be in the chamber. This will ruin the seal of
the inner sealing ring but leave the outer one intact.
9F. Test install the new liners with the figure 8 gaskets installed.
carefully check the height of each installed liner. each liner needs to
have less than 0.002 height difference from the others and between one
side and the other. Sand the figure 8 gaskets as needed to get exact
liner height alignment.
9F. Next, glue a piece of copper wire that is .012" thick into the
intact sealing grove of the steel head gasket with contact cement before
installing the head gasket. Use silicone sealer sparingly around the
coolant passages at instillation.
NOTE: If you install bronze valve guides they will need to be reamed to a
slightly larger dia than the manual states because bronze expands more
with heat and they can seize valves.
10. use exhaust headers, and loose the resonator
SANITY CHECK: SUs will work very well with the least amount of work and
and can get very close to a properly set up pair of Webers performance
wise and may tune better for economy. SUs will cost you less to set up
and should be the choice for sane rational people. Others go to item 11.
11. If sanity is lacking proceed with a pair of 40DCOE carbs on Pierce
Manifolds. You can buy a set from Pierce Manifolds in Gilroy California
or get a set up from Moss. Buy them with 34 chokes, 4.0 or 4.5
auxiliary chokes 50F9 idle jets, 140 main jets, 170 air correction jets,
F15 emulsion tubes, 45 acceleration pump jet, 50 accelerator pump intake
discharge valve and a 2.00 needle valve IF you are building the engine
per my description. This will give you a good starting point for fine
tuning and should provide a runnable engine as is.
11A. Co to TWM for the shortest stacks they have for 40 DCOEs and for
the shortest single itg air filter they have to fit your engine.
11B. You will still need to modify the front bottom of the filter for
clearance in a TR3. I cut the front to rear stabilizing rods off the
filter frame and clamped the top to the bottom with hogs rings. You only
have to modify the front bottom corner.
12 Get the Mallory breaker less distributor and set the timing for about
8 - 10 degrees BTDC and about 33-34 degrees full advance. An engine with
Webers need s lot of initial advance to work properly. Not enough and
the carbs spit at idle.
13. Stay with the stock fuel pump. It delivers perfect pressure for both
SUs and Webers.
14. Use competition springs and valve retainers.
15. If you have shaved the head, use shorter hollow tubular push rods.
16. If you plan on spending any time around 6000 RPM get the special
rocker arm pedestals that support the ends of the rocker arms. Replace
the springs between the rockers with copper tubing cut to space the
rockers properly.
17. You can add one of this finned aluminum valve covers & a breather if
you wish.
This should provide you with a nice street engine that is quite
dependable. It would probably be a good choice for auto crossing. But
if you are going to auto cross read the rule books first.
On a TR3, add the front competition springs and a roll bar at least
5/8ths dia, 7/8s or bigger would be better. Firm shocks at the front.
Leave the rear stock and do not add a rear sway bar. A TR3 works best
with a stiff front and soft rear.
Do NOT use an after market grill. The slats are too wide and it will
cause the engine to run hotter.
Anyway that should get you a 3 that is fun to drive on the street that
can get out of it's way.
TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW -
twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message
http://www.shadow-catcher.net <- Photography for sale
http://www.overlander.net <- Web directory for Land Rover
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman <- My personal web site
"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937
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