Hugh :
I just went and made some measurements, and although I won't swear my
calipers are good to the last .001", it appears the stock center hole
for both TR6 and TR3 is in the neighborhood of 2.748". That seems
reasonable, since my TR3 hub measures 2.745", and a little clearance is
necessary to get the drum off easily.
The lug holes should be fine for your car, but for a beam axle car like
my TR3A, they will have to be opened up to at least .578" to clear the
shoulder at the base of the studs. The factory holes are .590" (and
this seems to be the main difference between 9" TR3A drums and TR4A-6
drums).
If you aren't going to drill for the locating screws (and many people
apparently don't), then the center hole is the only thing holding the
drum concentric to the axle. IMO you should be able to widen the hole
without moving the center enough to matter, but if you have any doubts,
perhaps it's better left to a machine shop. If the drum is not
concentric, your brakes will pulsate, and wear where the slave rides
against the backing plate. The aluminum in the drums seems pretty soft,
so is likely to gum up the stones on your hone, too.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver - soon to receive 240Z drums
Hugh Barber wrote:
>
> I have acquired a set of aluminum 240Z brake drums to use on my TR6. I was
> wondering if anyone remembers the size that the center hole needs to be
> bored in order to fit. Is this something that a machine shop should do, or
> can you use a hone and do the job at home ?
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