Roger,
Is this deja vu all over again?
Here's a response that I sent out back in January to your same/similar
question. You must have lost it eh?
Got this copy from listquest.com.
Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71TR6 CC65446 (Christmas Ornament)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
Date: 04-Jan-2000 21:13:03
From:
Subject: Re: Heater Fan Question and Suggestions (long)
Roger, I posted this a few days ago also but this is the vital info.
Motor is advertised as 60% more power and it uses a squirrel cage fan
instead of the old blade fan.
Bud
TR4-6 heater upgrade kit 812301X 56.40 (pounds)
Moss Manchester
113-117 Stockport Road
Cheadle Heath, Stockport
Cheshire, SK3 OJE
Tel 0161 480 6402
Fax 0161 429 0349
They are also available through M & G International,Manchester, 0161
7739678, and M & G International, Merseyside, 0151 6661666.
Roger Helman wrote:
>
> What is this Upgade option. My fan is out and on the blink. The bushings
are
> very worn.
>
> Thanks Roger
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> [mailto:]On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 7:31 AM
> To:
> Subject: Heater Fan Question and Suggestions (long)
>
> Brad Kahler ask me this question and I thought the list might be
interested
> in
> the answer too.
>
> Brad wrote: In your opinion is the fan upgrade worth it? I assume all it
> does
> is replace the motor itself or does it also replace the fan? That works
out
> to
> around $75 plus shipping. Rather expensive for a little more air
movement.
>
> Answer:
>
> It upgrades the motor (advertised as 60% more power...which I think does
> happen
> but 60% of not a lot is still not a lot) and replaces the blade fan with a
> squirrel cage fan, which is more efficient.
>
> If for some reason you have to get into the heater box like I did to pull
a
> leaking heater core then it is very worth it, since pulling the heater box
> is a
> lot of work and it's one of those...well as long as I've gone this far I
> might
> as well go ahead and upgrade.... And it does blow more air. You can
> actually
> hear air flow.
>
> I don't think it's worth it JUST to increase air flow or heat since
there's
> some
> other things that you can do to improve that such as: 1) backflushing the
> heater
> core, 2) vacuuming twenty some years of leaves off the heater core by
> accessing
> through the scuttle vent (my heater core was about 20% covered/clogged
with
> leaves that had no place to go) with a small hose duct taped to your shop
> vac,
> or by GENTLY blowing air (back flushing) through the heater core via the
> bottom
> flap on the heater box while the scuttle vent is open, 3) closing the
dash
> and
> floor vents (swivel ones) when using the heater and defrost, and 4)
opening
> the
> scuttle vent when using the heater or defrost.
>
> Lot's of people don't realize the scuttle vent should be open (and I
didn't
> until I read it here on the list) or there's no air source for the fan and
> air
> flow is GREATLY reduced. I told a guy in the RMTC about this yesterday at
> the
> club breakfast...he had a 4A that he was complaining about poor heating
but
> he
> didn't have an owner's manual (which is apparently one of the few places
> that
> tells how to operate the heat/demist/vent system) and didn't know to open
> the
> scuttle vent.
>
> Nothing like experience to be a good teacher so I thought I'd share what
> I've
> learned the hard way.
>
> Air Vent Control (the bottom flap on the heater box) Positions/Functions
on
> MY
> TR6.
>
> 1) Knob all the way in. Open scuttle vent and open the dash and floor
vents
> to
> get ambient air temperature air flow. Air flow is only through the air
vent
> hoses and none through the heater core.
>
> 2) Knob pulled out to first click. Open scuttle vent and close the dash
and
> floor vents. Air flow is through the heater core and then through the
> demister/defrost hoses only. Pull heater control valve knob/cable to get
> heated
> air.
>
> 3) Knob pulled all the way out. Open scuttle vent and close the dash and
> floor
> vents. Air flow is through the heater core and then mostly out the bottom
> of
> the heater box onto your feet with maybe a little through the
> demister/defrost
> hoses. Pull heater control valve knob/cable to get heated air. This is
how
> I
> get maximum heating in the cockpit.
>
> Look at a heater box in a manual or catalog and you'll see where the
various
> air
> vent and demister/defrost hoses connect and the position of the heater
core
> and
> it'll make more sense.
>
> I'm sure the list will have some other good suggestions. Let's hear em.
>
> Hope you'll all be warmer.
>
> Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Helman" <rhelman@airswitch.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 8:17 PM
Subject: fan Motor
>
> Hey,
> My 71 TR-6 heater/fan blower motor has given it up. He anyone had an
> experience replacing it with a more modern Squirrel cage and motor?
>
> TIA
> Roger
>
>
> Roger Helman
> rhelman@airswitch.net
> rogerh@moves.com
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