The SU tool kit contains 2 (or 3, for triple setups) hollow rods, and 2 (or
3) metal wire 'pointers'. After being sure your needles are centered (the
carb piston falls freely and makes a distinct click when it lands), you
remove the plungers from the dashpots, and insert the hollow rods. The wire
pointers then go in the top of the rods, so that they point towards each
other. With the engine off, adjust as necessary so the wires align
perfectly. Then start the engine, and check the wires again. If they're no
longer aligned, loosen one of the pinch bolts, adjust the two idle screws
until the pointers are aligned, and tighten the pinch bolt. Double check
the mixture on both carbs, remove the rods, put the plungers back, you're
done !
If you want the carbs to be synchronized at partial throttle, just open the
throttle with the rods and pointers installed. You will most likely see the
rear carb lag the front by some amount (because the linkage between carbs
twists a bit). Loosen the pinch bolt and adjust the idle screws to align
the pointers by the opposite amount at idle. Tighten the pinch bolt and
recheck at partial throttle. Afterwards, you can most likely adjust the
idle screws to remain synchronized at idle (without loosening the pinch
bolt).
Of course, carb synchronization is not all that critical anyway, I've tried
deliberately mis-adjusting it and there's very little or no detectable
difference in the way the engine runs at throttle. It does idle a bit
rougher.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
> >
> >Moss also sells a reproduction of the original SU tool kit,
> which includes
> >a
> >better (IMO) synchronizer tool. P/N 386-300 $18.95 TRF
> probably has them
> >too, but I don't see them in the Companion.
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