Many thanks to all for the advice, gives me plenty of material for planning
my attack.
Don (Sforza), you provided the most exhaustive (and potentially exhausting!)
prescription, before I get started let me ask whether any of the items
listed can be left "as is" if they were in good condition when the car was
parked. In other words, will all of these items have deteriorated just from
the passage of time? (I think I know the answer, but I ask because the car
was in great shape when my dad quit driving it, only 47k miles, and I'm
trying to get away with doing just enough to be able to drive a hundred
miles to park in my own garage and start the major overhaul.)
Riff
On Sun, 8 Apr 2001 20:23:05 -0400, Don Sforza wrote:
> Like anything else, Riff, start with the obvious:
>
> 1. Brakes and suspension all around... all bushings, seals, bearings (not
the
> diff bearings, yet) ball joints, tie rod ends, trunnions, rear spring
bushes,
> shocks (new in front, rebuild rears at White Post or Apple hydraulics).
Throw
> out the brake pads and rotors (new rotors are a blessing in disguise),
turn the
> rear drums, NEW wheel cylinders, new brake shoes and pads, rebuild front
> calipers (stainless pistons). New springs all around wouldn't hurt...
better now
> than after you've got it all back together.
>
> 2. Check all parts you're NOT replacing for straightness and fit. Bead
blast all
> parts, paint with any number of rust resistant paints on the market...
POR-15 is
> good.
>
> 3. replace ALL ignitions parts that you can reasonably replace... points
wires,
> rotor, cap, condenser, coil, low tension lead; have distributor checked
for
> wobble in the shaft. Buy a new battery.
>
> 4. Have carbs PROFESSIONALLY rebuilt... again White Post or Apple
Hydraulics.
> New throttle shafts are probably needed and this is NOT a job for a
backyard
> mechanic.
>
> 5. Remove and have pressure tested the radiator; buy a new radiator
cap... also
> a new SMITHS thermostat. Remove and buy new ALL hoses, belts and clamps.
Replace
> the sump gasket and the valve cover gasket. New oil filter, new oil.
Adjust the
> valves.
>
> 6. Have the generator rebuilt and tested. Make sure you polarize it
before you
> scream about the "crooks" who took your money. Same for the starter.
Rebuild the
> fuel pump. While you're at it, disconnect the fuel line at the gas tank
and
> either replace the fuel line completely, or flush out the line with carb
> cleaner.
>
> That's a start. That took up the first three months of a five year
rebuild. The
> next ten years were spent enjoying the car and refining the driving
experience.
>
> HAVE FUN!!!
>
> 7. You can probable "get away with" not replacing the clutch... but keep
in mind
> that it COULD happen. Not a serious expense.. but a real bother to pull
the
> tranny.
>
> 8. Take apart and clean with a fine emery EVERY FREAKIN' ELECTRICAL
CONNECTION
> YOU CAN FIND. Lights, gauges, etc. Have the regulator checked if
possible.
>
> Don Sforza dsforza@megahits.com KA1WV
> 3/4 Morgan Group 1966 '4/4' V Competition B1290
> CT Triumph Register 1974 Triumph TR6 CF25689U
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