Richard -
You might want to go ahead and switch out the front studs. It is a fairly
straightforward switch. The rear is a different story as they are peened so
that the only way to get them loose is to drill them out.
However, since the front will receive a greater amount of side pressure when
driving, I would recommend to get the shorter studs so that you don't have a
potential problem. Also, there may be a clearance problem.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: Herald948@aol.com [mailto:Herald948@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 12:56 PM
To: RTriplett@bjservices.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Question
In a message dated Mon, 2 Apr 2001 12:36:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RTriplett@bjservices.com writes:
<< I'm getting ready to install wires on my TR3 and understand that the
studs for the hubs need to be shorter in order to fit. I'd prefer not to
cut the
studs, and have heard of using washers to extend the hubs. Is this an
acceptable procedure? If so, about how many/what size washers need to be
used? >>
Richard, there were any number of Triumph Service Bulletins that recommended
(mandated, even) that the studs be cut. For example, bulletin # T-64-23
notes: "When converting from disc wheels to wire wheels on TR4 models in
service, it is essential that the original wheel studs are shortened by
approximately 5/16" when installing the hub extensions."
Alternatively, I'd think a full spacer of that same thickness, rather than
individual washers for each stud, would be preferable. The TR bolt pattern
is a fairly common one, so it seems likely that spacers might(?) be readily
available in auto parts stores or speed shops.
--Andy Mace
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