Thanks to everyone who sent in advice.
I stopped by the local British car recycler and bought a replacement lock.
That allowed me to get a good look at the workings.
Then I went home and began fiddling with the cars trunk and was lucky enough
to get it open.
I did it by pushing in the button and twisting the key back and forth at the
same time with occasional pushing and pulling on the trunk lid. Apparently
the twisting of the key helped work the little flapper plate inside.
I firmly believe that no locksmith could have helped me here.
It appears that the little pot metal finger on the back side of the lock is
deformed and therefore not applying pressure on the latch plate in the right
place.
The next challenge is to mix and match parts between the two assemblies I
now have to get one good working part with the right key.
Thanks to everyone on the list for the help.
> ----------
> From: Bob French[SMTP:bobpcc88@mindspring.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 8:24 PM
> To: Dobrowski, Robert S
> Subject: Re: TR6 Trunk Lock
>
> oops! Exact problem last weekend. ( '73 TR6)
>
> IF THE LOCK is in fact not locked, then the plunger-to-flap is binding and
> is not pushing the flap(in the lock mechanism) up to disengage the hook
> (secured to the trunk lid).
>
> The mechanism is housed in a metal square with one side missing...that
> side
> is down. The "flap" moves on pivots secured to two opposite sides of the
> square--visualize the the ends of a Nebraska storm cellar door. The pivot
> points are on a parallel with the trunk lid. (Sorry about the
> details...it
> might help).
>
> What is probably occurring is the "flap" is binding on one side of the
> cube.
> The plunger pushes in; it slides against the flap forcing it up; the flap
> pushes the hook off the catch; and the "latch" disengages. (Easy to see
> when you have the mechanisum in your hand, hard to put into words...)
>
> For a visual reference, put the heel of your flat hand on your trunk,
> fingers pointed toward the gas tank. Keeping the heel of your hand on the
> trunk, raise your fingers. That is exactly how the mechanism works.
>
> What I finally did was:
> 1. Blocked the plunger to one side with a small piece of wood.
> 2. Insert a LONG, NARROW screwdriver into the space between the plunger
> and
> the metal ring around it.
> 3. By pushing on the screwdriver (TOWARD the gas tank...) I was able to
> push up the flap.
> 4. Took a while and it helped to have upward pressure on the trunk lid
> when
> I was able to push the flap TOWARD the gas tank.
> 5. Didn't think about the rubber mallet, but the physics are the same...
> YOU HAVE GOT TO PUSH THAT flap hard enough to have it push up the hook
> mechanism.
>
> If all else fails. try the locksmoth or drill the lock and talk to Moss,
> TRF, Victoria British, or wherever for a replacement.
>
> It is TRUELY a helpless feeling!
>
> (PS...don't forget to make sure the trunk mechanism works before putting
> it
> back together again...and install a secret wire on your bonnet also.
> Tough
> when IT won't open!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dobrowski, Robert S" <Robert.Dobrowski@JSF.Boeing.com>
> To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2001 8:11 AM
> Subject: TR6 Trunk Lock
>
>
> >
> > Help!
> > My TR6 trunk lock/latch has failed in the latched position.
> > Has anyone on the list experienced this?
> > Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get my trunk open?
> > I've already tried spraying WD-40 in past the lock and using the heal of
> my
> > palm to hit the lock button but it won't pop loose.
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